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Discussion Starter #1
this question relates to my ongoing water in oil problem which I'm trying to resolve.
what is the point to wet headers & does anyone just plug them & run as dry headers?? how blue do they go & does it destroy them?
this was suggested to me by an old jetboater saying"those things never worked right & just cause problems,we just disconnected them & ran em dry "
thoughts ??:)Unsure
 

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They will work fine, They get hotter than two rats fu(king in a wool sock and turn blue super fast. You could send them out and get them coated and that will take care of the blue issue and drop a few deg. I am not real sure they are the cause of oil in your water. I would lean more towards a head gasket for that???
 

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I assume you are talking about over the transom headers. The only time they can cause a milky oil condition is if they are pumping water at idle.
 

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I have seen them turn blue all the way to the end of the headers . The watter keeps them from bluing .It also helps Quiet the exhaust noise like a baffle.
 

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Like the others said they will turn blue all the way to the tips. If you are boating with passengers in the back seat (bench type) they are going to want the water in them because they get F-ing hot and won't be fun for them.

Are you running an "AN" fitting to the water lines? If so you should choke it down with a plug with an 1/8" hole drilled in it. This will limit the amount of water getting in there. you shouldn't ever see water coming out of the headers just a small mist if anything. Are you running a valve on the dump for back pressure? If so ditch it and run a dump straight from the intake to the transom and use a bassett "T" valve. These three things will help with any excess water getting in there and causing problems.

What size cam do you have? If it is big and all that water is in the headers then you are risking reversion and the steps I mentioned will help reduce the chance of bending a rod.

I am by no means a professional but it doesn't seem that the water in the headers is your problem. Water doesn't compress, if it were coming in the exhaust valve you'd have a whole different problem but it is possible given the right circumstances.
 

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They get hotter than two rats fu(king in a wool sock
Seriously crying I'm laughing so hard :p:p:p

Sorry to say rogerroost but I'm going to be sad when this is figured out and you stop posting in the dyno section because I'm going to miss seeing your avatar!!!
 

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Seriously crying I'm laughing so hard :p:p:p

Sorry to say rogerroost but I'm going to be sad when this is figured out and you stop posting in the dyno section because I'm going to miss seeing your avatar!!!
X2 can we get a bigger pic??

be carefull running headers dry if they come close to the fiberglass
it can cause problems
 

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X2 can we get a bigger pic??

be carefull running headers dry if they come close to the fiberglass
it can cause problems
Ya mean like this ;) proof that fiberglass doesnt burn but resin does


Lots of boats regularly run water injected Headers without incident including "oil milking" , not likely the Headers are the issue ,but rather the "controls and plumbing" or other problems .. re one thing for sure always have a positive idle shut off .re "The Rats" Geeze Stuart I though I'd heard them all :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that answers that ! pretty clear bout the rats.not to mention the pic. It ws suggested that they would blue for the first 6-8" "like on a harley"Glad I asked :)
glad ya all enjoy my avtar.....i like it :)devil If she had a water leak ,pretty sure i'd know were to look. 460 has 30psi in it as i type.
 

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You might want to buy a header shut of valve. I also run a water pressure regulator before that. You can pick one up at Grainger..Like said, the H20 keeps em waaaaaaay cooler and muffles noise. Im not a huge fan of the Bassett T-Valve because I like the option to turn the water off when desired.

Coating them is the ONLY way to go. Not only will your headers blue, they'll eventually rust. Once that happens, there's no going back. Hit up Embee (Tikiman on the boards) for a price on ceramic coating.

http://rexmar.com/page228.html

Attached is a pic of my control valve.
 

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FWIW I run my headers dry ALOT and where I live it gets pretty hot, Not like 2 rats--------------Never mind, but I blue the tubes about 6" up and that is it. I geuss that would depend on the tune of the boat. You know, combustion chamber temps and stuff like that. I would shut them off for a test of about 20 minutes and eliminate that possibility in the equasion. MLAO.
 

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Rogers-

How 'bout posting a pic of your current setup, the water lines in particular. That may help us out.
 

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You might want to buy a header shut of valve. I also run a water pressure regulator before that. You can pick one up at Grainger..Like said, the H20 keeps em waaaaaaay cooler and muffles noise. Im not a huge fan of the Bassett T-Valve because I like the option to turn the water off when desired.

Coating them is the ONLY way to go. Not only will your headers blue, they'll eventually rust. Once that happens, there's no going back. Hit up Embee (Tikiman on the boards) for a price on ceramic coating.

http://rexmar.com/page228.html

Attached is a pic of my control valve.

Finally! Someone is using the correct part for the purpose of water pressure control, thank you RT.
 

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