Anyone have knowledge on this? I am running into a wall with my hull I think, and the boat is super sentimental to me, I was in my mothers stomach in this boat and have been driving it since i was old enough to walk, and my daughter the same and I am 35 yrs old now!! Dont want to get another boat but ,I just want to know if there is a wall you can hit with a v-bottom boat? I am running low to mid 90's now and, I built the motor for a direct port 200 shot of gas, but have not installed yet. Would a jet-a-way help, because boat kinda gets crazy under hard shut down conditions!!! PICS OF BOAT ARE BELOW ON NEXT POST.
What are the v-hull limitations in terms of top speed and why?
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Your boat is stunning! Very nice indeed you I'm sure are proud Its also very fast according to your stats and yes a Jetaway and other saftey features would help you respective to yours and your passengers saftey. To me the question would be not so much if you can push the boat past the "wall" and make it run faster than current but rather can you run the boat fast with impunity and particularly saftey , likley is yours like so many others was built/designed as a family/pleasure/ski boat and designed to run to maybe 70's Tom
70's won't cut it Tom, I have spoke with you on the phone about this boat, years ago and bought some T-shirts from you and you never charged my card for them, I would like to purchase more and pay for the one you never charged me for! On another note...I have a lot of money in this boat, solid roller 496 CNC ported aluminum headed ARP studded complete forged rotating assembly and all ARP hardware throughout the block, NASCAR centered HOLLEY 750 DP'ers and CNC port matched tunnel ram too, all built G&G performance racing engines, boat turns 62-6300 with a BA stainless, pro loader, shoe, diverter, ride plate, droop. I'm knocking on the door of a 100 if I spray the boat but it is truly a handfull now, not wanting to hear I need a TX-19/18, want to have the v-hull that everyone knows that it screams!!! Out here in Texas most know, but there is always that Youngblood I'm chasing!!!!
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do you have a couply sideshots of the pump and maybe underneath where you put this bubble you mentioned in the other post?
)THumbsUpI will take some tonight and post them, we put the spoon in it to compensate for the factory hook. The idea was to get the boat up on the spoon and create lift and a litttle air pocket under the boat as it rides on the spoon and the factory hook, but it took alot of horsepower to get the boat up on the spoon and it really feels good under hard throttle, boat does'nt feel like its working to move throught the water anymore! Gives you that floating loose feeling and the boat is aired out nicely, but like I said when you shut it down it wants to hook to the left some have said this is normal, but I have viewed several videos on you tube, some of the California Performance Rigattas and I see a lot of v-bottom boats that haul ass, and I'm wanting them to chime in and tell me what they did to their boats?
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My understanding of the problem you are facing is that when the pump stops, so does the steering. That leaves friction to steer the boat. If the boat sat down perfectly level, the shut down would be straight and uneventful (hopefully). But, since the boat will never have perfectly even drag on both sides of the hull, it is going to steer one way or the other. And once the bow starts to turn it is fighting increased pressure/drag (which will rapidly slow the front of the boat), the back end of the boat will continue to try and travel in the same direction at the same speed it was and it will come around on you, over on you, or what ever it feels like doing as you can't steer it. Below a certain speed the hull will try to stream line with the V, above that and the hydraulic forces at work will overwhelm the hull's V and the boat will do as stated above.
As mentioned, a rachet will help some. At least it will allow the pump to turn and release some of the pressure from under the pickup (which helps to not lift the rear of the boat). There might even be some slight amount of steering thrust from the flow through the pump, but it won't be enough to really notice when the engine stops at speed.
As mentioned, a rachet will help some. At least it will allow the pump to turn and release some of the pressure from under the pickup (which helps to not lift the rear of the boat). There might even be some slight amount of steering thrust from the flow through the pump, but it won't be enough to really notice when the engine stops at speed.
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not to disagree but most of the place diverters i have seen/sold will use a rudder, although it is one made for it and not a berkeley rudder. it is available in a large and small size. i think the handling effects far out weigh any of the drag. especially at low speed in a no wake zone or in a loss of power situation.
IMO, the rudder does nothing at speed. Only helps at low speed. Shutdown at 100mph speed is always a concern for V hullls, including TX 18-19. You have to learn not to lift out of the throttle but to ease it down while keeping your steering. You talked about the hook in the boat. Did you take the hook out?
If you lay a 6' ft straigh edge from the transom forward and you see daylight under the straight edge, that is hook. Hook effects speed.
It's funny most jet boat guys are worried bout rooster tails that's like watching NASCAR for the crashes, I hate that shit!!! I just wanna haul ass could care less about a damn rooster tail!!! It just happens to have one when the boat is trimmed out!
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i would assume this would make the boat nose down with more speed counteracting the dry plane that we look for. being said would it be better to be flat, or have a slight bubble? i know its only partialy related to the OP so if it seems off track please let me know and ill start a new thread
Don't know what you mean by pandora's box. The boats that you saw at the CP deal I'am sure had bottom work done and run with a shoe & rideplate.
I'm not an expert, but the dry plane is what you are looking for. The nose is controlled by the ride plate angle, droop, wedge, and place diverter. Once you get the boat aired out, the tunning/adjustments is what makes it fast. Their have been a lot of discussions on a spoon or bubble on boats, I think most are used on Daytona pickle type boats. But can't have any hook in the boat.
I have a shoe and ride plate and my shoe is 1/16 below the keel is what my measurments were. What I mean by pandoras box is with the spoon we put in to it, would I have to remove that and or ad or take away a bunch of material from the bottom to remove the hook would I be working backwards in terms of progress since I already have a bunch of R and D it already? What are the cost to get a just boat "bottom blueprinted"?
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