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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The dark plug is out of #4(smells like fuel)....the other 7 plugs look like the light one. Not sure what to think..maybe bad plug wire? 2 hours run time before that the dark plug looked like the good plug. plug 2.jpg
here is the rest of em
 

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I would start with checking the wire and compression. Could just be a bad plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I would start with checking the wire and compression. Could just be a bad plug.
Time to buy a new multi meter to check the wire...fwiw the plug that is marked 8 was in the #4 hole last friday.:grin: Well...you know what I mean.lol so the plug deal is out....just checked my valves also.
 

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The dark one Is firing....otherwise it would look new. #4 is fat for some reason....can't have soot without fire.....do a compression check
 

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Check the heat from that cylinder is it burning? Temp gun or take a handle of an old screwdriver and place on the exhaust pipe with the others and see how hot it's burning.

S CP
 

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Multi Meter

Time to buy a new multi meter to check the wire...fwiw the plug that is marked 8 was in the #4 hole last friday.:grin: Well...you know what I mean.lol so the plug deal is out....just checked my valves also.
Can you explain the process on checking plug wires with a multi meter and what kind of reading should you have..I have Taylor solid core wires like you would use on a mag..thanks..

Edit: Just went to Taylors website and this is what it said..
To check the resistance of the wires, use a multi-meter to test the resistance (Ohms) of the leads. Once you have read the resistance of the wire, divide that number by the length of the wire (inches) and this will give you the Ohms per inch. Then multiply the Ohms per inch by 12 to get the Ohms per foot. (700 Ohms / 24" long = 29.16 Ohms per inch x 12 = 300 Ohms).

I assume my meter should be set at 20,000 or 20K...is that correct..So if the wire is good what kind of reading should I get and what would a number be to show the wire is good...thanks again..
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Can you explain the process on checking plug wires with a multi meter and what kind of reading should you have..thanks..
On taylors websight it has resistance per foot for their different types of wires...IF I remember right mine are 600 ohms per ft. I will pull the bowl and check the jet thing. I'll see if I can get my pyro to work...it took a bath last year in the boat. Guess this is a good excuse to go buy a compression checker also.:)bit
Edit....fwiw...carb is a 1050 domi on a single plane manifold.
 

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Is the #4 plug always the one sooted up? I have had this happen and the intake valve was open then when transported fresh gas was sloshed or flooded over into the cyl.! It caused a wet look on my #4 plug most of the time! Just a thought!
 

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On taylors websight it has resistance per foot for their different types of wires...IF I remember right mine are 600 ohms per ft..
I think I'd swap plug wires and see what happens to that hole.

But do check to see if it's building heat.

S CP
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is the #4 plug always the one sooted up? I have had this happen and the intake valve was open then when transported fresh gas was sloshed or flooded over into the cyl.! It caused a wet look on my #4 plug most of the time! Just a thought!
I never noticed a difference with the plug until the end of last week when I ran my valves again. Gonna buy a compression tester tonight...if that doesnt show anything I will try a new plug and a wire swap like suggested. On somewhat of a side note I dont recall my other plugs ever looking this lean before...I did lean the idle out earlier this season....and have been running my header dry until about 3k rpm...not sure if that has anything to do with the price of tea in china.:)sphss Maybe I will pull the bowls tonight....check the jets....and get out some carb cleaner and a compressor.
 

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How about a better pic ? Just can't really tell much from the photo.

The 'lean one's' look rich from here also. Just not as rich of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Compression is ok...wasnt great but it was better than the cyl next to it...havent checked the other 6 yet. Here is a little better pic...i think. I am admittedly bad at reading plugs....and these have some idle time on em to.
Guess I'll pull the carb apart...could a plugged air bleed cause 1 cyl to run rich?:)Unsure
new plug pic.jpg
 

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As for reading plugs....I just some internet reading yesterday...

I guess the only thing the porcelain color is good for is spotting that evil detonation thing.

Fuel mix is a ring around the porcelain all the way at the very bottom where it meets the metal case and the flat part on the bottom of the threads.

And ground strap color pattern is plug heat range...

And of course the only time reading a plug has real value is after a good hard blast and quick shut down/off....

And unless my need for glasses has caused me to misunderstand what i read....best ignition timing is found
be reading plugs....and i don't think that meant there were actually timing marks on the plugs..
:)bulb

And if i picked the wrong source of info to study let me know..


Reading Spark Plugs Correctly

Wallace Racing - Spark Plug Reading

Or you can just close your eyes and screw in a set of these.

surfa.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #20
problem solved yet? could it be in the cap?
I am still stumped...been out of town for a couple of weeks. Plug wire seems fine according to my ohm meter. Tried several plugs in there and they all come out the same. I am beginning to wonder if its oil on the plug. Open for sugestions..Unsure
 
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