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77 sleek.
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When i turn the ignition on this part gets hot its got 2 wires that go to it from the ground block is it normal for this to get really hot.
 

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thats a ballast resistor, should not go to ground, it should be in line with the ingnition wire to the coil, if its getting hot you probly need a new one
 

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When i turn the ignition on this part gets hot its got 2 wires that go to it from the ground block is it normal for this to get really hot.
a ballast resistor is just that ....a small coil of wire which creates resistance and drops voltage to the ignition its wired in such a manner that during cranking a full 12 volts is bypassing the resistor to allow for better starts they very seldom fail but do get hot (due to the resistance the create) an will even smoke at times (normal), the have no ground function or feature the attaching bolt is isolated from the electrical workings of the device call or put up more info if you need help Tom
 

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What Tom said, and......

What Tom said, plus, take it off and clean the rust off the connections, replace the end connectors/screws with clean ones..... Those resistors were in place to reduce battery voltage to the coil. Primarily to make the points last longer. Modern ignition systems rarely use them any more, but depending on yours, you might still need it.... What distributor/coil are you running?
Ray
 

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77 sleek.
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924 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
It has a huge accel ignition coil on it, it was on it when i bought it. The wires that go from the b. resistor one goes to a power block the other goes to the coil. so i guess its hooked up right.

 

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Sounds rightr...

One side is 12V+, usually from the ignition switch, and in your case, using the "junction block" from the switch, and on to the ballast resistor.. Another note here: The ballast should be by-passed "while cranking only". On GM solenoids, there are two small connections. One, I believe marked "S", and the other marked "R". The "R" side should connect directly to the coil + side, either on the coil side of the resistor, or directly to the coil... It isn't totally necessary unless you experience hard starting, or your battery is drawn down quite a bit during cranking. If the battery voltage is reduced due to hard cranking, AND you reduce it further with the resistor, you MAY experience a low voltage condition at the coil and a weak spark while cranking... The real way to find out is to put a volt meter on the coil + while cranking and see how low it drops. Most resistors will reduce battery voltage to around 9 volts while running, but you want all you can get while cranking...The reason for the connection directly from the solenoid...
Ray
 
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