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Resident Ford Nut
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Has anyone ever had a problem switching from regular oil to synthetic midway through the life of the engine?
Only when we put ARCO Graphite in our 428 powered Mach 1 :)sphss I don't know how in the hell ARCO ever passed that crap through their R and D process.:)bulb I may have just aged myself :)

You won't have a problem. When I talked to the Mobil One Engineer 20 years ago he told me I could run 6 qrts of Mobil One and 2 qrts of Reg oil or the other way around, they are fully compatible with one another. Now if you're running a 20-50 don't switch to a 5-30 of something that light.

S CP :D
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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I"m going to start running synth. Last year i ran valvoline vr1 10-30.

So any of you guys know of places to get synth oil at a good price? I just checked summit for kicks and they want $38 bucks for a gallon of redline (4 quarts)
Redline is like drinking the finest Champaign, when you go first class you have to pay the price. There are many very good oils that will more than do the job, but just don't cost as much. Their oil base (esters) along with Moltul and one or two others are the best you can buy. They withstand more abuse and heat than any others + 300* endurance testing cycle after cycle. If you don't plan on taking your engine over 300* oil temp some others will do. I had a talk with a Moltul engineer at SEMA one year over lunch. Nice guy for a Frenchman ;)

S CP :D
 

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10-30 Mobil-1 in GM roller motors. Because GM says so. No, actually, just because you can get it cheap at Costco. 5-30 is actually GMs recommendation(s). Plus, I figure if a NASCAR motor can qualify with 0w M-1, then 10-30 is plenty thick for my water cooled AND oil cooled low RPM (5100 max) purposes. I see no reason to waste hp spinning 20-50 or any ancient straight-weight oils.

I run 5-40 Delvac-1 in the dually (DuraMax). Again, easy to get (although not at Costco) and highly recommended by other diesel guys. I've got 7,000 miles on this load of oil and just got the results back from Blackstone. They said feel free to keep it in there another 3,000 AT LEAST. All levels were above/below average respectively.
 

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10-30 Mobil-1 in GM roller motors. Because GM says so. No, actually, just because you can get it cheap at Costco. 5-30 is actually GMs recommendation(s). Plus, I figure if a NASCAR motor can qualify with 0w M-1, then 10-30 is plenty thick for my water cooled AND oil cooled low RPM (5100 max) purposes. I see no reason to waste hp spinning 20-50 or any ancient straight-weight oils.

I run 5-40 Delvac-1 in the dually (DuraMax). Again, easy to get (although not at Costco) and highly recommended by other diesel guys. I've got 7,000 miles on this load of oil and just got the results back from Blackstone. They said feel free to keep it in there another 3,000 AT LEAST. All levels were above/below average respectively.
You run mobile 1 in the boat as well? How many hours before you change?

Thanks!
 

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I"m going to start running synth. Last year i ran valvoline vr1 10-30.

So any of you guys know of places to get synth oil at a good price? I just checked summit for kicks and they want $38 bucks for a gallon of redline (4 quarts)
Fwiw I've heard syn. for new rings(seating) is not a good thing. I've brought this subject up a few times and still haven't had an answer that I'm comfortable with. Some one set me straight here as far as synthetic or not for break in???
 

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gets 'em wet
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I've been running the quicksilver 25/40 marine oil in mine. Does anybody else run this oil? It's pretty expensive.
 

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I noticed a drop in oil pressure after a hard run this past few weekends. I added a blower and a new cam. I can rev to 6k+. 10 minutes later the pressure starts to creep up. Im stepping up the quality of oil this weekend. & a couple of new wix filters.

Good timing for me on this thread:)devil
 

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AIR POWER
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I run straight 40wt. I thought the idea of having heavier oil was that it would hold up better when it gets really hot from running around all day especially in a jet boat?
 

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Sit N' Spin
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Jim Coffey at Performance Jet suggested that I run Valvoline VR1 20w-50 in my motor due to the ZDDP content in it (I run a flat tappet cam) so that's what I went with.
 

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Allow me to stir the pot......if the (w) in lets say 10w-40 is for "winter" and most if not all of us boat during HOT summer months >why use a multi grade?

Is a synthetic more slipperier that a dino oil...personally I doubt it. A thin oil will reduce parasitic rotational drag more vs a straight wt of the same higher number.
I was always under the impression a synthetic offers a higher tolerance to high heat protection however, if your engine is running that hot in the first place I would think that would be more of a concern vs if you had synthetic in it or not.
 

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Sit N' Spin
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Allow me to stir the pot......if the (w) in lets say 10w-40 is for "winter" and most if not all of us boat during HOT summer months >why use a multi grade?

Is a synthetic more slipperier that a dino oil...personally I doubt it. A thin oil will reduce parasitic rotational drag more vs a straight wt of the same higher number.
I was always under the impression a synthetic offers a higher tolerance to high heat protection however, if your engine is running that hot in the first place I would think that would be more of a concern vs if you had synthetic in it or not.
From what I've been told, straight weight oils take a bit longer to get them up to temperature than the multi-vis.
 

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From what I've been told, straight weight oils take a bit longer to get them up to temperature than the multi-vis.
I'm sure that's true...only...because a "thinner oil" will flow through the engine a little easier to absorb heat faster. But, maybe, just maybe a straight wt also coats the moving parts better while the engine is sitting for some time.
Last season I did me a little simple test >with 50 wt in the pan and the engine sitting for two weeks I pulled a valve cover and noticed a good coating on all the springs, push rods, rockers etc. I then started the engine and noted how long it took oil to reach the rockers.
Later that season I did the same test with 20w-50...under the valve cover everything looked and felt dry! I then started the engine and it took the SAME amount of time for oil to reach the rockers! I'm sure if I used a 5w-10 it would have pumped faster but at the cost of no protective coating on the moving parts while sitting for a week or so???
There very well may be pros-cons for any oil used, but again I ask...why use a "winter-(W)" oil during summer months?
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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Is a synthetic more slipperier that a dino oil...personally I doubt it. A thin oil will reduce parasitic rotational drag more vs a straight wt of the same higher number.
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So the noticed operating temp reduction comes from what....... a magic fairy ? :)bulb As to noticed power increases from switching from a standard 20/50 to a syn 20/50 that increase can be accounted for how ? Same wt oil.

How many times have you run your engines on a dyno and did back to back pulls ? :)bulb More than the GM engineering department when they evaluated Mobil One over Pennzoil, Castrol and Valvoline ? Or maybe just more times than I have ? Or for that matter about 12 of the Engine Master's competitors I've talked to since '94 who all run syn oils. ;)

I guess if "standard" oils are better all the Nascar -Cup teams must be running synthetics because of the sponsorship money. I guess every Formula One team and Indy car team is in the same boat; the sponsorship money from the Synthetic oil companies is just to good to pass up. It has nothing to do with them being better oils :)sphss

S CP :D
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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Fwiw I've heard syn. for new rings(seating) is not a good thing. I've brought this subject up a few times and still haven't had an answer that I'm comfortable with. Some one set me straight here as far as synthetic or not for break in???
5 years ago, including hyd. flat tappet cam BREAK IN.

Zero problems.
 

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And then there is this: I run Syn. Mobil one or Castrol 10w40

This cam does not look like a bad core.
The lifters show signs of rolling on trash.
They also show signs that the wheel is skidding and there are flat spots on the wheel, which makes me think they are using synthetic oil.

In the past I have seen where synthetic oil is to slippery and actually causes the wheel to skid and not rotate.:)bulb

Not saying this was the causes, just another thought:D
 
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