Here's a direct link to the "Tech Talk" section of Jim's website. On top of the Engine Oil Alert article, there is a great bit of tech info there, my favorite being the Jet Boat Engine Cooling article.
If you're happy just keep doing what your doing, if you decide you want to change try the 20-50 ,but what dos the GM book call for ?Hey Sleeper, i ran str. 40wt. in my marine power 496 FI that has a jet behind it, if i change to multi wt. syn. oil should i use 10w40 or 20w50. Your opinion???
I've been interested in this type of discussion for a long time (30 years or more)So the noticed operating temp reduction comes from what....... a magic fairy ? bulb As to noticed power increases from switching from a standard 20/50 to a syn 20/50 that increase can be accounted for how ? Same wt oil.
How many times have you run your engines on a dyno and did back to back pulls ? bulb More than the GM engineering department when they evaluated Mobil One over Pennzoil, Castrol and Valvoline ? Or maybe just more times than I have ? Or for that matter about 12 of the Engine Master's competitors I've talked to since '94 who all run syn oils.
I guess if "standard" oils are better all the Nascar -Cup teams must be running synthetics because of the sponsorship money. I guess every Formula One team and Indy car team is in the same boat; the sponsorship money from the Synthetic oil companies is just to good to pass up. It has nothing to do with them being better oils sphss
yes, i've run lucas for the past 2 years. 8 years ago, i ran royal purple synthetic for the first year, after that, synergen synthetic, then lucas for the last 2 years. since it's a full roller motor, i follow my engine builder's recommendations, and follow the specs for truck/cars/motorhome. when we pulled the engine apart after 7 seasons, bearing and other surfaces were basically perfect.have any of you ever ran any of the LUCAS oils?
They offer a zinc additive oil for break-in and anytime use. And I spoke with them they still recommend the 15-40 deisel oil for marine applications. any input?
On the break-in, I would guess there is a way to hone the cylinders so that you can start out with a syn oil. GM does it with the Vett's. The GM engineer I talked to told me something about it, I do know they break them in on syn oil. They don't run them and then change the oil.Old school=
when we build a motor we break it in using a "Non detergent" oil
(Non detergent oil was used to 1. lube the engine and 2. let the particles flow down to the steel and let them sink into the pours of the steel and let them harden, thus making it a smother suffice. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I don't know if you can buy a Non- Detergent oil now they are very hard to find
Synthetic Oil Vs regular oil
Synthetic oil lasts for a longer time than regular oil
Question: Why would I use a synthetic Vs a regular oil
I get the same lube on a regular oil as a Synthetic but I only use my oil on a boat for 1 year (100 hrs max?) then change the oil
20-50W (20 weight (a very thin oil which will protect your engine at a cold temp).-(50W while not an actual 50 weight, but affords the same PROTECTION) as a 50 weight)
I basically did the same thing. I had a cylinder wall fail which ended up kicking #1 rod out before 1/2 track. My dumb a$$ was trying to qualify so I stayed in it (just thought it had a misssphss). Just pass the finish line I glanced over like usual to check oil pressure and there was none!!! Shut the motor down and of course water and 10qts of oil where in the bottom of the boat. Tore the motor down and the crank just needed to be polished. Mobil 1 is good oil!!!!! I figured if it allowed a motor to run without oil for a 1000' at 8000 RPM with very minimal damage then it won me over!!!Mobil 1 10-30 why?
Because I had a oil pump drive gear fail in my 100,000plus miles 3.0 Mercury sable I ran it 38 miles at around 85 mph with no oil presure (sometimes you just do what ya gotta do) When I pulled it apart to fix it I just ended up changing the cam and the pump drive, the rods and the mains looked like new.
If mobil 1 can take that kind of abuse there isn't any reason to use anything else. If it's got an engine and it's mine it has mobil 1 in it, 3000 Ford diesel tractor, lawn tractors, lawn mowers, generator, the kids mini bike you get the idea!
oops I lied my 7.3 Diesel has 15-40 conventional oil in it I change it every 2-3000 miles just to make sure it stays clean. Mobil 1 would cost me a fortune to use in that.
i have always used this oil. i wish some other people had. the only thing i know is what a sales person told me 8 seasons ago. the only part i remember is that there is a patent on their oil and it is guaranteed to never break down.I've been running the quicksilver 25/40 marine oil in mine. Does anybody else run this oil? It's pretty expensive.
Geeeeez change your oil already!At the risk of repeating myself..........again.
Valvoline 20W-50 full synthetic........because it's kept my motor together for 7 seasons going on 8. Last cold leak down check 5% across the board. Doesn't say much for the bearings, but apparently everything else is pretty good.