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I just got a Beizmeyer with a Berkeley jet from my Mother in law because she and her husband split. I know very little about jet boats. It has an Oldsmobile 455 in it and doesn't appear to have any real modification from stock. I want to change the oil because it's been sitting for a year, but i'm not sure what to use. And do I need to buy a pump to change the oil myself?:)devil
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
pump to change oil

Unless you can pull the engine or get a pan under the drain plug you are going to need a suction pump to pull the oil out of the engine. I use one from West Marine it holds five quarts and it works well. Be careful with that olds motor don't buzz it very high they seem to be lubricationally challenged talk to someone who has built a bunch of Olds motors for oil system mods. remember that engine was intended to go no faster than 3500 rpm in a Vista cruiser wagon
 

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The type of oil someone uses really gets down to personal preference. Engines in the higher RPM should be using a straight weight. You can not compare a street vehicle to a boat.

The boats are either at or close to idle or above 3000 rpm. Oil does not care, but the temps it has to handle is the difference.

A boat that runs 4K to 5k can handle a multi visosity oil. A boat that runs over 5k needs a stronger viscosity. Over 5500 rpm should, in my opinion, run a straight weight motor oil. Which type again goes to personal preference.

The guy that built my engine recommended Valvoline VR1 50wt. I trust his opinion because I am running over 6000 rpm. Most engines in our boats do not run over 5500 rpm.

Another question is synthetic or dyno oil. Again I feel it is personal preference. Synthetic does do a better job of lubricating. But it does not last longer than dyno oil. The filter can only clean for so long . Does the cost difference make that much difference in performance. NO

We have lake boats, make the engine last. Dino oil has worked for years.

Is Brad Penn better than Amsoil, Is Joe Gibbs better, is Mobil I better?? That is up the the person putting it into their boat.

Whatever works and you are happy with it, keep using it
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Tim Team BFH

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well said...............I run the same. Never gave me problems

@ 5700 RPM. 80 to 85 PSI cold 55 to 80 PSI hot 170*
 

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All good theories. Basically, I haven't seen anything here about anyone having an OIL RELATED failure. So, all oils (brands, types, viscosities) seem to be doing their job(s).

The way I see it is; evolution is constant. We are not running cast iron rings anymore. Bearing materials are all way more advanced than back in the days when straight-weight oils were designated for motors. Less than half of the boats on this site, maybe closer to less than a quarter are still running flat-tappet cams. Probably even less are still running stamped rocker arms.

So, yes, straight conventional 40 wt - let's say - will lubricate a late motor just fine. But, several other options have EVOLVED over the last several decades. It just seems crude (no pun intended) to run an archaic ancient oil in a newly developed, custom built (or late model production) motor. The way I see it is - if I was going to run ancient oil like that, I would just build a loose-clearance, copper-bearing, cast iron ring flat tappet motor with stamped rockers and cast iron valve-guides. Why waste money on all the new fangled stuff?
 

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So you are saying that since it is an old motor ('73) I should run old oil like a straight weight? Or would I be better off to use new "evolved" multi-viscosity synthetic?
 

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So you are saying that since it is an old motor ('73) I should run old oil like a straight weight? Or would I be better off to use new "evolved" multi-viscosity synthetic?
You can use what you want. I am getting at the fact that oils now are BETTER than they were in, say, '73.

Look at it this way - if you put any parts in the '73 motor or rebuilt it - wouldn't you use BETTER parts available today? or would you look for factory '73 internals that didn't benefit from today's technology?
 

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Valvoline Racing 50W, because my engine builder said to.
this is an old thread but my engine builder said the same thing and I have been using religiously every 20 hours and very good experience going 600 hours between rebuilds with 500 Eli’s and no failier, just time
 
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