Yep, top mount... I'll attach a couple of photos when the camera charges back up.
Thanks at some point I may try that, my rails are at the bottom of my stringers, I have my doubts. I guess I'm so observant I didn't notice the fact I have NO dowls)eek). I ordered some today but the rear plate holes are going to have to get bigger for this plan to work. Maybe I'll take a file to my starter.lolheres a pic
It needs to go straight up??? I'll stick up a bigger pic of the left side of my impeller(as in where it died). When I turn the motor over with no plugs I can hear it the starter sounds good for 1/2 a rotation, then a 1/2 a turn that's not sounding right or under more of a load. I'm wondering if the flexplate could part or all of the problem.What ever it takes to get the top mount to work DO IT. I have the bottom mount on mine currently. Its real pain if you need to remove it. I basically need to lift the front of the engine up enough to get my ratchet onto the bolts. Its a Real PITA. I had a leak that I later found that was real bad. Water from the fly wheel flung onto the starter and caused 2 to go bad within a few months. On the 3rd starter, John, Sleeper CP told me a trick that he did that saved his starters and i use that trick now.
H20MOFO cant you shim the starter from the bell housing?
Good point......maybe a good time for a new flexplate before you
ruin the starter drive
Hopefuly you got her handled, I know we talked about this a while back and I wondered..... I may pm ya to ask about those spacers. The ones I'm using now I cut out of a sheetrock square.lolI had a heckuva time getting my top mount starter to work. I am not 100% sure it correct yet, time will tell. It does sound a lot better now than before though. I wish I had thought/knew abut the offset dowels for the block, that would have made the final fitting cleaner.
When I first mounted the starter, the gear was always meshed with the flex plate. Come to find out, I was supposed to call the manufacturer to get the spacers needed to get the correct horizontal distance between the starter and the flex plate. Got the spacers and mounted the starter again, now the cup that goes over the clip on the end of the shaft that holds everything on was hitting the flex plate. My solution was to increase the starter mounting holes diameter to allow for some vertical adjustment. This got me close but not quite enough. I ran it this way for the first year and a half, all the while the starter sounded nasty and I was replacing the clips, cups and gears way too often. (I think I went through 5 or 6 clip/cups and 4 gear sets.) Finally, the flex plate gears were getting too chewed up and I replaced it.
The new flex plate had a different horizontal offset and required a different spacer. Additionally, it was about 0.1" larger in diameter and made it impossible to use the previous gear eating setup. After sending the starter back to get its internals checked, I got yet another set of spacers to get the correct starter to flax plate horizontal spacing. However, not I could not get enough vertical spacing. I ended up taking a flapper wheel to the Lightning mounting piece and made the opening about 0.03 larger.
Now the starter sounds a lot better and turns the motor over fine. Later this year, I'll take it out to check for wear and I'll know if I got it right or not.
Are you saying I should point the starter up in the air(shim)?? I CAN shim away from the back of the block....horizontally, not vertically.The adapter is a three point mount to the motor plate, a little shim goes a long way on the top mount starters. Just add or subtract to the top adapter bushing to get the clearance.
I don't think you know what I'm working with here..... The bolts that hold it are at 3 and 9:00, the starter stand does have a 3rd bolt(small allen head) at like 11:00. I guess I don't get it.With the three point mount on the adapter, shim the adapter, not the starter.... much like aiming headlights.