Performance Boats Forum banner
21 - 40 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
I had a heckuva time getting my top mount starter to work. I am not 100% sure it correct yet, time will tell. It does sound a lot better now than before though. I wish I had thought/knew abut the offset dowels for the block, that would have made the final fitting cleaner.

When I first mounted the starter, the gear was always meshed with the flex plate. Come to find out, I was supposed to call the manufacturer to get the spacers needed to get the correct horizontal distance between the starter and the flex plate. Got the spacers and mounted the starter again, now the cup that goes over the clip on the end of the shaft that holds everything on was hitting the flex plate. My solution was to increase the starter mounting holes diameter to allow for some vertical adjustment. This got me close but not quite enough. I ran it this way for the first year and a half, all the while the starter sounded nasty and I was replacing the clips, cups and gears way too often. (I think I went through 5 or 6 clip/cups and 4 gear sets.) Finally, the flex plate gears were getting too chewed up and I replaced it.

The new flex plate had a different horizontal offset and required a different spacer. Additionally, it was about 0.1" larger in diameter and made it impossible to use the previous gear eating setup. After sending the starter back to get its internals checked, I got yet another set of spacers to get the correct starter to flax plate horizontal spacing. However, not I could not get enough vertical spacing. I ended up taking a flapper wheel to the Lightning mounting piece and made the opening about 0.03 larger.

Now the starter sounds a lot better and turns the motor over fine. Later this year, I'll take it out to check for wear and I'll know if I got it right or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I had a heckuva time getting my top mount starter to work. I am not 100% sure it correct yet, time will tell. It does sound a lot better now than before though. I wish I had thought/knew abut the offset dowels for the block, that would have made the final fitting cleaner.

When I first mounted the starter, the gear was always meshed with the flex plate. Come to find out, I was supposed to call the manufacturer to get the spacers needed to get the correct horizontal distance between the starter and the flex plate. Got the spacers and mounted the starter again, now the cup that goes over the clip on the end of the shaft that holds everything on was hitting the flex plate. My solution was to increase the starter mounting holes diameter to allow for some vertical adjustment. This got me close but not quite enough. I ran it this way for the first year and a half, all the while the starter sounded nasty and I was replacing the clips, cups and gears way too often. (I think I went through 5 or 6 clip/cups and 4 gear sets.) Finally, the flex plate gears were getting too chewed up and I replaced it.

The new flex plate had a different horizontal offset and required a different spacer. Additionally, it was about 0.1" larger in diameter and made it impossible to use the previous gear eating setup. After sending the starter back to get its internals checked, I got yet another set of spacers to get the correct starter to flax plate horizontal spacing. However, not I could not get enough vertical spacing. I ended up taking a flapper wheel to the Lightning mounting piece and made the opening about 0.03 larger.

Now the starter sounds a lot better and turns the motor over fine. Later this year, I'll take it out to check for wear and I'll know if I got it right or not.
Hopefuly you got her handled, I know we talked about this a while back and I wondered..... I may pm ya to ask about those spacers. The ones I'm using now I cut out of a sheetrock square.lol
 

·
Boat Nut
Joined
·
5,131 Posts
The adapter is a three point mount to the motor plate, a little shim goes a long way on the top mount starters. Just add or subtract to the top adapter bushing to get the clearance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The adapter is a three point mount to the motor plate, a little shim goes a long way on the top mount starters. Just add or subtract to the top adapter bushing to get the clearance.
Are you saying I should point the starter up in the air(shim)?? I CAN shim away from the back of the block....horizontally, not vertically. :(:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
With the three point mount on the adapter, shim the adapter, not the starter.... much like aiming headlights.
I don't think you know what I'm working with here..... The bolts that hold it are at 3 and 9:00, the starter stand does have a 3rd bolt(small allen head) at like 11:00. I guess I don't get it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
The shims I made will work with 2 bolt starters the fit on that stand. Let me know what you need.

When the starter is shimmed out correctly, the gear is far enough out horizontally that the cup on the end of the starter shaft is above the flex plate teeth, the gear does not rub and the gear does not hang over the other side of the flex plate. If the starter is too far out, the gear only partially engages the teeth on the flex plate.

Vertically you should have around 0.02" between the flex plate and the end of shaft cup. I am running a bit more vertically, about 0.025" or so.

I am using an IMI Hi-torque starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That ain't 12:00 bro

Fwiw I tried that also. I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one. If you think about it by aiming the starter up(like a headlight), you are lowering the entire starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
adding to or subtracting to the 12 o'clock spacer with change the ring gear clearance.

And also cause the pinion gear on the starter to engage the ring teeth at an angle. Depending on how much you need to bring the starter up, this isn't the best solution. A better solution is to use the offset dowels to move the block/flexplate down to make the needed clearance. Wish I had thought of that before I modified the mount and starter flange.... If I have to replace this starter, I will use this method to get the correct spacing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
93 Posts
I had the same problem. The spacer between the crank and the flex plate was home made 1/2 AL. What happened was even though the Flex plate to crank bolts were torqued correctly the flex plate would move off center and create the problem. REX marine sells a 1/2 in spacer with a center index that prevents the flex plate from moving off center. It fixed my problem. I killed 3 new flex plates and the same # of starter pinion gears
 

·
Boat Nut
Joined
·
5,131 Posts
FWIW the first Lighting kit I bought was used, the guy I bought it from, went thru starters like crazy. I bought it, with three starters, one was heavily modified, it kind of worked, but sounded wicked. I found the motor plate was reversed, the starter side was stamped with an "S"....I put the kit in a narrower stringered boat so it did'nt matter about the holes in the plate, so I flipped the plate 180* put in the original starter for the rail kit and never looked back. I can imagine if you have had the block line honed, you may run into issues,and need off set pins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
Sleekcrafter

At your suggestion I checked my motor plates for any kind of indication. Gound no marks. Also, the wya mune us done, reversing the plate just puts the starter on the other side of the top of the flex plate, with the same offsets..... Didn't help, but I did get to try to put a low mount starter in which didn't work either... That was a fun afternoon in the 90+ heat!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
:|err:|err:|err WTF! still no workie. I'm open for suggestions. Is it just me or does something look fishy with the pic of the starter and the ring gear? Does anyone think my rear plate is backwards. Fwiw I think I heard my plate is a 3 point starter mount that has been converted to a 2 point. I wonder if I should have a 153 tooth flexplate instead of a 168??
 

·
Boat Nut
Joined
·
5,131 Posts
Wheres the center bolt? Does the starter bendix extend into the teeth enough? I had to make spacers to position the starter for proper engagement. As far as clearance between the gears, that was by shimming the adapter a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well I think I got it, talk about a f'n hack job special. I ended up taking my carbide bit and router and dropped the dowl holes a little in the rear plate. Probably defeated the purpose of the dowls, I dunno? RE the center bolt...there is just 2 that hold the starter, the 3rd hole at 11:00 has an allen headed bolt that just goes through the starter stand. I thought it was kinda odd that I had to clearance the flywheel cover for the dowls. Maybe my dowls are extra long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Don't ever name your boat CASH ELIMINATIOR!! LOL When you hit the key and get juice to here isn't the starter supposed to do something? Fock ,if someone said boat tomorrow or you will be killed ....I guess I'd be dead.
 
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top