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They used that same block from 71 -78. It would be internally balanced. The external stuff happened with the 79 block. which would be a D9 code.
 

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Got these numbers off the block D1VE-6015-A2P and what all numbers and letters stand for. i think D1 means 1971 is that right.
No, not exactly. D1 is a reference to 1971, but this is not indicative of when the block was cast (nor is it necessarily the year model of the engine) because the number you are asking to interpret is not a date code; "D1VE-6015-A2B" an engineering revision. The D1VE engineering revision cylinder blocks were used from 1971-1978. The actual date that the block was cast is located in the lifter valley and is alphanumeric.

Regardless, the actual year of your engine is not particularly important since all blocks can pretty much sustain the same power levels as far as the stock blocks go.

LO
 

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77 sleek.
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Discussion Starter #8
Ok i took off the valve coversand on the head it says 6H12, 201 and in a circle it reads 19753 there is also a M with a big C and a smaller c inside what kind of heads are these also.
 

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Ok i took off the valve coversand on the head it says 6H12, 201 and in a circle it reads 19753 there is also a M with a big C and a smaller c inside what kind of heads are these also.
The head casting number is on the outside of the head, along the valve cover mounting rail, and based on the numbers you posted my guess is that you will find D3VE-A2A.
 

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Ok i took off the valve coversand on the head it says 6H12, 201 and in a circle it reads 19753 there is also a M with a big C and a smaller c inside what kind of heads are these also.
My dad(RiverRacer) says that Head was cast on August 12, 1976. MCC is the Michigan Casting Center code(where it was cast) vs DIF(Dearborn Iron Foundry). Probably a revision D3 casting.
 

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77 sleek.
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Discussion Starter #12
Turtle:1478546 said:
Ok i took off the valve coversand on the head it says 6H12, 201 and in a circle it reads 19753 there is also a M with a big C and a smaller c inside what kind of heads are these also.
My dad(RiverRacer) says that Head was cast on August 12, 1976. MCC is the Michigan Casting Center code(where it was cast) vs DIF(Dearborn Iron Foundry). Probably a revision D3 casting.
Would doing a valve job do me any good performance wise vs the stock set up.
 

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Would doing a valve job do me any good performance wise vs the stock set up.
I asked RiverRacer. He said if your Heads need servicing it might offer an improvement, but it depends on how bad the Valve faces and seats are. If they are worn out and there is no seal, you might pick up some power with a good, radius valve job. Maybe a little more if you put in CJ size valves and did some porting and bowl blending, BUT, your not going to pick up a bunch without changing a LOT of parts and spending some cash(probably Cam change as well as Valvegear, Intake, Oil Pan & Pump, Ignition and Carb).

He said to tell you just to drive it and enjoy it. When it gets sour, think about pulling it down and redoing it then.
That's what I'd do myself, to.

Hope that helps.
 

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77 sleek.
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Found the numbers on outside of head they are D8VE-A2A i looked 3 diff times cause ive been seeing there is no such thing as D8VE as ive researched so its probably D3VE. Can anybody tell me anything about these heads. This winter i want to put in a new cam, and do a valve job what would you guys suggest, i want something that gives a good sounding idle i love to hear that lobe sound. It has a edelbrock torker 460 intake, edelbrock 750 carb, accel ignition coil, and some aftermarket exhaust manifolds not sure what kind but they read H-2985.


 

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Found the numbers on outside of head they are D8VE-A2A i looked 3 diff times cause ive been seeing there is no such thing as D8VE as ive researched so its probably D3VE. Can anybody tell me anything about these heads. This winter i want to put in a new cam, and do a valve job what would you guys suggest, i want something that gives a good sounding idle i love to hear that lobe sound. It has a edelbrock torker 460 intake, edelbrock 750 carb...
As I noted above, you very likely have D3VE-A2A heads. Yes, they may be modified to make good power. That being said, the D3VE's are low on the performance food chain but are indeed regularly used for builds to 450 hp typical. With extensive work, they have been known to support in excess of 600 hp in certain builds (but if that's the hp you are targeting then you might want to start with better heads).

A quality bowl blend and valve job can help, but currently your biggest bolt-on shortcoming is the aluminum intake manifold you are using. The Edelbrock Torker is meant to used in low rpm tow vehicles and the absolute worst 460 manifold design for a jet boat application, bar none (even the factory iron passenger car intake is better than the one on your engine).

Ford 460 engine design harbors downright amazing power potential, but its capability is drastically chasitized due to ultra-low compression ratio, small carb, and a distributor with virtually no advance curve. Adress those things and the engine is transformed a la Jeckyl & Hyde. Add a little port work and camshaft/timing chain to the aforementioned changes, and power to suit most hot rod artists is easily acheived.

In your case if you want to do that winter project, start collecting parts now such as a new intake manifold, larger carburetor, cam and lifters, and ultimately pushrods. Cylinder head port work, valves, and a good valve job will give you some decent power; you will still need to eventually change out your pistons in order to increase your compresison ratio (or you could do a head swap [for higher compression] this winter as part of your winter project).

LO
 
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