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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the best way to keep the block from freezing. This I my first jet ad I unsure of the best way to get the block full of antifreeze. I have a basic 454 with a disconnect on the water inlet hose on the driverside of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Im planning on adding fuel stabilizer as I did with my I/o's but looking for what others are doing or thoughts on getting the coolant into the block.
 

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Run the engine and spray fogger down the throat of the carb until it shuts the engine down. While the engine is still warm drain oil and fill with new. Drain the block of all water exhaust logs too. Put plugs back in and fill the block up with Antifreeze. I am using the motorhome pink stuff to fill the block with. Make sure the pump is empty as well. Pull pluggs and douche down the cylinders with fogger. Re-install plugs and you're winterized.

Stabilize the fuel. I drained the carbs and will probably replace the accelerator pumps at the new season as the the new fuels have so much alcohol in it they harden the rubber diaphragms pretty well.
 

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I've always just added Sta-Bil to the tank the last trip out so the fuel in the lines and carb gets Sta-Bil too. I just drain the block and pull the hoses from the exhaust after the last trip out. As I drive home (~80mi) the water that could get trapped if it's just statically drained will be purged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I do not think I have any drain plugs in the block or exhaust manifolds to drain any water from. On my I/o I always just an them tell the tstat opened then let the waer pump suck antifreeze in. I put stabill in the tank and run it.
 

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Just an aside , not saying dont winterize but it takes a few succesive nites of very cold temps to freeze/crack parts , we often just put a droplite in the bilge or have used heating pads with good success , re fogging always a good idea for a layup , personally dont care for stabil
 

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I siphon my tanks and put the gas in the truck.

Since I just moved to Redding, I am curious how cold it needs to be to winterize the cooling system.

I definitely pull the batteries though and use them from time to time. I hate buying batteries.
 

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I've always just added Sta-Bil to the tank the last trip out so the fuel in the lines and carb gets Sta-Bil too. I just drain the block and pull the hoses from the exhaust after the last trip out. As I drive home (~80mi) the water that could get trapped if it's just statically drained will be purged.
:))THumbsUp What he said. Remove the block drain plugs and pull the hoses off the end of the manifolds that sit the lowest. Drain the oil while it's hot and well-mixed if you know it's the last trip of the year. If the boat will sit outside, I'd fog it. But for indoor/dry storage, I never bother.

The pipe plugs in the block are the worst part. Replace them with a pair of small brass, bronze, or stainless steel ball valves and you will turn winterization into a 5 minute project. Literally.
 

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I do not think I have any drain plugs in the block or exhaust manifolds to drain any water from. On my I/o I always just an them tell the tstat opened then let the waer pump suck antifreeze in. I put stabill in the tank and run it.
you do its on either side of the block. Most likely a 3/8's pipe plug screwed into the block. Un screw and let the water flow.
 

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I do not think I have any drain plugs in the block or exhaust manifolds to drain any water from. On my I/o I always just an them tell the tstat opened then let the waer pump suck antifreeze in. I put stabill in the tank and run it.
I didn't realize where he was living. The winterizing I have done to my boat was done beacuse everything up here freezed during the winter. Had a couple of pipes freeze on me this past winter.

Chances are you don't have to go as overkill with antifreeze as I do. You'd probably do just fine by draining the water out of everything.
 

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I fog, drain all water, pull carb and drain fuel seperator, put oil soaked rags in opening after spraying some fog oil down, put batteries on tender(outside under cover storage), stabil or seafoam in tanks. during winter I blow out carbs before reinstall. never had issues
 

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I fog, drain all water, pull carb and drain fuel seperator, put oil soaked rags in opening after spraying some fog oil down, put batteries on tender(outside under cover storage), stabil or seafoam in tanks. during winter I blow out carbs before reinstall. never had issues
What is the "fogger" you guys are referring to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just an aside , not saying dont winterize but it takes a few succesive nites of very cold temps to freeze/crack parts , we often just put a droplite in the bilge or have used heating pads with good success , re fogging always a good idea for a layup , personally dont care for stabil
Interesting idea. Thanks everyone for the ideas.
 

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Some cars sit in lots for months without moving. No problem. I do use stabil, change oil and drain the motor. Not sure what the pump needs? I have a set back pump, the previous owner says disconnect the water hose to the motor, start it and run bout 3 gallons of antifreeze thru it? Till it comes out of the exhaust pink.
 

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I siphon my tanks and put the gas in the truck.

Since I just moved to Redding, I am curious how cold it needs to be to winterize the cooling system.

I definitely pull the batteries though and use them from time to time. I hate buying batteries.
I just drain the block, and leave the pipe plugs out. I blow air through my hoses that feed the header water to the manual valve at the helm, and blow out the T valve and stainless lines.
My shop is not heated and this has been fine for 10 years now.

We did have a couple PVC pipes freeze and break on the pool filter system one year. Pool had a 1/8" of ice on it...
 

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Drain the block.

Never drained the block while I was in CA. First year in Texas, didn't drain it. Second year, no so lucky.

Tire Automotive tire Metal Auto part Automotive wheel system
Auto part Metal Rim Wheel

Plus 2-3 three inch cracks along the side of the block. It's 100% trash.
 
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