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Discussion Starter #1
Does

Didn't read it. Just throught someone with more time could. It is a testimony of NOT ADDING STUFF to oil.
Wags
 

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WTF... real info on addatives and it doesn't get a second look. Link is to speedfreak site.
Wags
 

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WTF... real info on addatives and it doesn't get a second look. Link is to speedfreak site.
Wags
Wags, if you are on Amsoils E mail list you get articles like that about once a month. That one was from Amsoil. The bottom line on that and many of the articles they write is, don't screw with the oil. Buy the right oil to begin with, which I tend to agree with. I would never suggest to someone that they buy some cheap oil and add anything. If your going to do that, be sure what it is your adding and how much.

There are too many oils out there to be playing home chemist. Its stupid.
If you are going to run a conventional oil, you have Brad Penn, Torco, and Gibbs all making excellent conventional oils. If you have to buy your conventional oil from a local retailer, then VR1 is you best bet, with the straight weight be the perfered oil for flat tappets, then 20/50. Mosty cam grinders will tell you to stay away from 10/30 for a flat tappet. Even VR1.

If you have to run some Havoline 10/30 in your falt tappet motor, then you better be looking at an additive. But its stupid.

One reason Amsoil is so against it is, they make very few oils now that require an additive because only their XL line is API certified. So they blend the oil the way they see fit.

Adding somethng to your oil is ADMITTING you bought shit oil.



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first of all they would not have the stuff in a bottle (from the cam co.)to add to the oil when breaking in a cam if it wasn't detramental. many have lost a new cam. i personally have wiped out a journal bearing in my turbos .often! (turbos too small,spinning too fast)& i resorted to putting the zink additive in my motor. my turbo lasted for a few outings .lots of passes. finally wiped out my bearing in the turbo & threw a new bearing in it & went on my way. with the first wide open full pass i made, i wiped out the bearing!!!!!!!..when i did the oil change at the same time i forgot to put the additive in!..i stand by my first hand experience of additives in the motor. not sure exactly what this tester is or looks like not sure if it just stops a turning wheel under load. stopping a spinning wheel under load would be more of a slippery h.p. test i would think. if more power was produced to force the oiled spinning wheel ,this is when the zinc would funtion is what i would think. its protective but causes resistance,less slippery.i used comp cam engine additive & vr1 20/50.. just my observation.....i did watch a test with a 1 arm bandit & my final thought was he did oil to oil & additive by itself or 50/50 or some other higher than you would actually use mix ratio. he never used the exact mix ratio when comparing. i dont remember him being inconsistant with the pulling but he could have.....in my case i was overloading the turbo above & beyond probably any oil could handle -for what its worth:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They will put anything in a bottle to add to anything if they can sell it.
The article seems to point out that more damage is done than good by adding stuff to the oil companies blend.
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There is a wide variety of Gibbs oils. Both synthetic and conventional. Huge price swing as well.

Right now Mark, if your thinking conventional, its tough to beat Lucas' new marine oil.
Thank you I will check into it. Mark
 

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anyone run Kendall- Liquid Titanium
with added Zinc
 

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anyone run Kendall- Liquid Titanium
with added Zinc
You have to be carefull with some oils the way they are marketed. Kendall is one of them. There is Kendall GT1 blend and full synthetic, THEN there is Kendall GT1 High Performance blend and full synthetic, as well as Kendall Ultimate GT1 synthetic and Kendall GT1 CONVENTIONAL
Only Kendall GT1 HIGH PERFORMANCE CONVENTIONAL has a zink and phos over 850. Which is stupid low.
The 20/50 has the highest, but the straight weights are right up there at around 1200 which is on par with the 20/50 and straight weight VR1

You just have to be carefull what it is your buying.

Teague uses it in his unblown engine packages. The blown ones get Amsoil Dominator Racing. Which is some bad ass stuff.



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GN7 Bob, if availability wasn't an issue or even delivery to your door, of the three oils Lucas, Amsoil or Torco, which would you use. And what weight. Considering becoming a dealer, with 5 boats every oil change becomes a pain as far as getting the stuff I prefer.
 

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GN7 Bob, if availability wasn't an issue or even delivery to your door, of the three oils Lucas, Amsoil or Torco, which would you use. And what weight. Considering becoming a dealer, with 5 boats every oil change becomes a pain as far as getting the stuff I prefer.
Steve I can set you up with my guy,, he isn't far from you anyway. I know he has Brad Penn and Torco,, not sure about the others.
 

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I have been reading nothing but good things about Lucas but I personally like Torco. Spent a couple of hours with Wilkes this morning and he is extensively testing all the Lucas products.
 

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I have been reading nothing but good things about Lucas but I personally like Torco. Spent a couple of hours with Wilkes this morning and he is extensively testing all the Lucas products.
You can't go wrong with all three in your engine. As a dealer trying to turn product, thats another story. Lot of online competition with the Amsoil.
Torco speaks for itself. I seriously doubt that you can find anybody that doesn't like Torco stuff.
I think Wilkes will find the Lucas marine stuff to be pretty good stuff, as is their racing oils. I understand that their M8 gear oil is suppose to be as good as it gets. Never used it, but I have talked to people that have and they were pretty impressed. I think of the 3, your going to see the Lucas becoming available at more and more stores.



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why not just buy the right oil to start with.
i dont mean to beat a dead horse, but i am kinda lost, i have not read the whole thread, im always on my way to work, or im getting called to go to work when i start reading (im on call, no set schedule) so my question is, do i need zddp in my oil? Its a 351 cleveland, comp cam flat tappet, motor, it is not a race motor, but it is a flat tappet cam, i use castrol 10-30 or 10-40, i am thinking this oil needs the zddp? I have not seen torco or any of the other oils you guys talk about around here? Maybe i need to go to the other side of town to see if they have that stuff, but the question is does the regular off the shelf castrol stuff need the additive? I also have a chevy 327 flat tappet in a 66 truck, it has a kinda big cam (flat tappet) i dont want to round the lopes on a fairly new rebuild, it seems that most places here have regular oil (off the shelf) so thats why i started putting zddp in....thanks
 

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You don't see Torco or Brad Penn or any of the better oils because they are not legal for over the counter sales. Speed shops, and online are the only places you will see them.

Don't read too much into the link. The guy is not a petrochemist. I don't put much weight on what he said, and I assure you, neither do the cam grinders and lifter manufactures. There is a reason they either supply that stuff or direct you to get some. If you buy ZDDPlus or MaxZDDP, or some other additive from somebody else, how do they benefit from it? The idea that is all a gimmick thought up by the cam comapanies is ludicrous.
I think your better off with a straight 30 wt, and I think you'll find that most of the cam grinders think the same.

If you have to run a multi grade, consider something "outside" the automotive labels. Like maybe Lucas Marine conventional. They don't have PLAY by the rules governing automotive oils.

I ran Castrol in a VW for years. I would run it in a lawn mower today. When a oil company either lies, hides the truth, I am done with them. Castrol "redefined" what the term synthetic means and there is nothing anybody can do to stop them. Mobil tried and failed. When you read "synthetic" on a Castrol label, it doesn't mean a damn thing. How many other "retail" oil companies are doing the same? Hard to tell. But to my knowledge none of the big names are, but I have my doubts about Valvoline. They are more than capable. So I avoid them too.

In my personal opinion, the motor oil game is the dirtest play game in the auto industry today. I simply perfer to go with trusted names in racing oils. The old standby names like Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, and Kendall are no longer the players in the performance oil game, and certainly with the oils you buy over the counter. Their heads are in the NEW CAR game.



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:lmao1::lmao1::lmao1:
You don't see Torco or Brad Penn or any of the better oils because they are not legal for over the counter sales. Speed shops, and online are the only places you will see them.

Don't read too much into the link. The guy is not a petrochemist. I don't put much weight on what he said, and I assure you, neither do the cam grinders and lifter manufactures. There is a reason they either supply that stuff or direct you to get some. If you buy ZDDPlus or MaxZDDP, or some other additive from somebody else, how do they benefit from it? The idea that is all a gimmick thought up by the cam comapanies is ludicrous.
I think your better off with a straight 30 wt, and I think you'll find that most of the cam grinders think the same.

If you have to run a multi grade, consider something "outside" the automotive labels. Like maybe Lucas Marine conventional. They don't have PLAY by the rules governing automotive oils.

I ran Castrol in a VW for years. I would run it in a lawn mower today. When a oil company either lies, hides the truth, I am done with them. Castrol "redefined" what the term synthetic means and there is nothing anybody can do to stop them. Mobil tried and failed. When you read "synthetic" on a Castrol label, it doesn't mean a damn thing. How many other "retail" oil companies are doing the same? Hard to tell. But to my knowledge none of the big names are, but I have my doubts about Valvoline. They are more than capable. So I avoid them too.

In my personal opinion, the motor oil game is the dirtest play game in the auto industry today. I simply perfer to go with trusted names in racing oils. The old standby names like Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, and Kendall are no longer the players in the performance oil game, and certainly with the oils you buy over the counter. Their heads are in the NEW CAR game.
:spam:
 
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