Sanger Drag Hydro Questions
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Sanger Drag Hydro Questions

  1. #1
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    Default Sanger Drag Hydro Questions

    Hi all, I have a Sanger Drag Hydro I'm putting together after a few years of sitting and need some help from you experts. Have owned a couple v drives in the past but never
    a Hydro w Lenco, and have never done the engine to V drive alignment or proper placement setup from transom. I'm a newbie at this and any help would be appreciated.
    Hoping to get this on the water this year. Can and will provide any details needed.

    1. Is there a thread or written procedure on engine v drive alignment someone can point me to ? Tips ?
    2. Can anyone tell me how to decode the Hull ID # branded into the stringer ? SL-xxx-72

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  3. #2
    clueless Sangerskier's Avatar
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    Hull# SL I believe is super light, 72 would be the year and the 3 digits in the middle the numerical sequence. There should not be any dashes in it I don't think. You say its branded into the stringer? As I understand it Sanger never, ever burned the hull numbers into the hull. Mine look like faded pencil under the resin and theyre not on the stringer but inside transom just to the right of rudder.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sangerskier View Post
    Hull# SL I believe is super light, 72 would be the year and the 3 digits in the middle the numerical sequence. There should not be any dashes in it I don't think. You say its branded into the stringer? As I understand it Sanger never, ever burned the hull numbers into the hull. Mine look like faded pencil under the resin and theyre not on the stringer but inside transom just to the right of rudder.
    Sangerski
    I looked again and not branded but dark gray or black and very well could be pencil. Definitively on top of the stringer and under resin back by the transom.
    Any info out there on production numbers produced that year ?
    Thanks

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  6. #4
    Senior Member SKIDDER's Avatar
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    Default Branded or pencil

    My 72 circle Sanger has it burned in the transom with a dash???
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #5
    clueless Sangerskier's Avatar
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    Well there ya go, looks like I'm wrong again. I don't remember who told me that and I suppose there are allot of stories out there but Harlan Orrin would be the authority.

  8. #6
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    Default drive line

    Are you going to run a drive line with U joints or a splined solid shaft or a greek coupler by its self?

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedtrap View Post
    Are you going to run a drive line with U joints or a splined solid shaft or a greek coupler by its self?
    I will be using the greek coupler by itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SangerV View Post
    I will be using the greek coupler by itself.
    Are your engine rails on the stringers angled as higher in the back and lower in the front? Or do they run true with the stringers.
    Some pictures would help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedtrap View Post
    Are your engine rails on the stringers angled as higher in the back and lower in the front? Or do they run true with the stringers. <br>
    Some pictures would help.
    <br>
    <br>

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedtrap View Post
    Are your engine rails on the stringers angled as higher in the back and lower in the front? Or do they run true with the stringers.
    Some pictures would help.
    Stringers are angled from higher in the back to lower going forward. The Lenco bell housing has integrated stringer mount pillows which were not disturbed with this re power.
    Engine (BBC), Lenco, greek coupler drive train stayed the same. The problem is that I changed the front engine mount from (two piece mount & timing cover separate, to one piece motor mount incorporating timing cover ) which must be modified to length, to sit on top of stringer motor rails. Also I am concerned if the previous setup was a bit motor aft heavy. I am just not practiced in the tolerances necessary with greek coupler, and if any forward backward placement of the engine and/or modification of the length of coupler is indicated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #11
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    Motor rails need to be the same angle (parallel)as the vdrive input shaft. Assuming a 10* vdrive and approx 8* strut, rails about 2-3* angle.

    Vic Esposito

  14. #12
    small block jet 2sangers's Avatar
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    This is how we did ours. First pic with one safety collar is mockup. Later we learned the shafts should be spaced so a bolt can be installed in the hole, eliminating the need for safety collars. The biggest thing was getting everything perfect when running tight and still being able to slide the coupler by hand. In other words perfectly aligned. Sorry for the sideways pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by thefreak View Post
    Motor rails need to be the same angle (parallel)as the vdrive input shaft. Assuming a 10* vdrive and approx 8* strut, rails about 2-3* angle.

    Vic Esposito

    What Vic said.

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sangers View Post
    This is how we did ours. First pic with one safety collar is mockup. Later we learned the shafts should be spaced so a bolt can be installed in the hole, eliminating the need for safety collars. The biggest thing was getting everything perfect when running tight and still being able to slide the coupler by hand. In other words perfectly aligned. Sorry for the sideways pics
    Thanks for your reply, have been away for a few days. When you say perfect do you have a tolerance number ? My coupler has a bolt. Will post more pics.

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