Jet boat plumbing
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Jet boat plumbing

  1. #1
    Senior Member boaterguy1's Avatar
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    Default Jet boat plumbing

    Can any of yall post up sum pics of the plumbing on your boat. Thanks

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    Senior Member Alter Ego's Avatar
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    I dont have a pic right now, but all my water lines are -8 AN. it comes in to a pressure regulator with a bypass that sends the extra water directly overboard, the regulated water goes into a "T" and to each water pump outlets in the front of the block, all the water comes back out of the thermostat housing (no thermostat) then to another overboard bung. there are no other valves. I will post some pics if I can find some.

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    Senior Member boaterguy1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alter Ego View Post
    I dont have a pic right now, but all my water lines are -8 AN. it comes in to a pressure regulator with a bypass that sends the extra water directly overboard, the regulated water goes into a "T" and to each water pump outlets in the front of the block, all the water comes back out of the thermostat housing (no thermostat) then to another overboard bung. there are no other valves. I will post some pics if I can find some.
    what if i have water injected headers

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    Member nordic 572's Avatar
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    Default if you have headers

    bbc/dom jet powerd nordic the water exits therm like what the other guy said, make sure the by pass goes overboard like he said be fore it enters motor,or blown head gaskets will most likley occur,for headers on my bbc /dom jet from the t/stadt outlet one goes o/b plumb the other to a a ball valve,then to a tee. both ends of tee to water injectors, this way you can tune the discharge,you really dont want too mutch water. what worked for me was slightly opened just a trickle at idle ran a 850 h.p. motor never blew a gasket,never got over 168deg f .little cool would liked to see 180fdeg ,good luck this is only my opinion. ran this set up on 3 motors over 24 yrs in same hull. i still have it. buy running one of the t/stadt o/b you eliminate any possibility of "over charging" the water discharge. forcing unwanted h2o into ex system, hope this works for you and you find it helpful. k.s. my bassets have a regulator that turn the water on, i think c/p,performance has this part in catalog i must warn you! it rotted spring on the inside of this thing unknown to me. at 1st trip out after winter laydown when i went to "air it out" it didnt supply the water it. didnt quiet down. but the time i turned mt ex was glowing like a holloween pumpkin,so in myefforts to save my beautiful chrome ex i pulled in and starting splashing water on pipes turned them to an ugly discoleraition,whis i left at least the blue wasnt that bad,if you go with the press/reg check spring/drian valve in storage for off season started doing that and i never had anymore trouble.
    Last edited by nordic 572; 05-21-2011 at 10:41 AM.

  7. #5
    Senior Member boaterguy1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nordic 572 View Post
    bbc/dom jet powerd nordic the water exits therm like what the other guy said, make sure the by pass goes overboard like he said be fore it enters motor,or blown head gaskets will most likley occur,for headers on my bbc /dom jet from the t/stadt outlet one goes o/b plumb the other to a a ball valve,then to a tee. Both ends of tee to water injectors, this way you can tune the discharge,you really dont want too mutch water. What worked for me was slightly opened just a trickle at idle ran a 850 h.p. Motor never blew a gasket,never got over 168deg f .little cool would liked to see 180fdeg ,good luck this is only my opinion. Ran this set up on 3 motors over 24 yrs in same hull. I still have it. Buy running one of the t/stadt o/b you eliminate any possibility of "over charging" the water discharge. Forcing unwanted h2o into ex system, hope this works for you and you find it helpful. K.s. My bassets have a regulator that turn the water on, i think c/p,performance has this part in catalog i must warn you! It rotted spring on the inside of this thing unknown to me. At 1st trip out after winter laydown when i went to "air it out" it didnt supply the water it. Didnt quiet down. But the time i turned mt ex was glowing like a holloween pumpkin,so in myefforts to save my beautiful chrome ex i pulled in and starting splashing water on pipes turned them to an ugly discoleraition,whis i left at least the blue wasnt that bad,if you go with the press/reg check spring/drian valve in storage for off season started doing that and i never had anymore trouble.
    thanks

  8. #6
    Member nordic 572's Avatar
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    Default hoatey b/g

    your quite welcome,ive tourtured the hell out of some the brillant minds here they hung in there helped a lot. glad i could help just 1 guy in return,dont hessitate to p/m me if i can help whith your boat, i run them jets over 20 yrs! working on a off shore blower boat now. and i dont know whats needed the good folks are really making this easer on me, good luck and thanks for the come back
    Last edited by nordic 572; 05-21-2011 at 11:03 AM.

  9. #7
    "Mad" Member Jet Mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boaterguy1 View Post
    Can any of yall post up sum pics of the plumbing on your boat. Thanks
    This is how I run my waterlines on my 12JC and 455 Olds

    From the pump SS pipe (12.5mm) ID
    On the SS pipe a 1/2" Gate Valve (not ball valve)
    3/4" SS Tee after gate valve.
    On the SS Tee a Brass Pressure Relief Valve set at 15 PSI with overboard dump through transom.
    From SS Tee a -10AN SS Braid hose.(8" long)
    AN Tee for line that feeds the Oil Cooler (-10AN)
    From oil cooler to a -10 AN Tee.
    From tee to water pump inlet ( -10AN - Both lines are equal lengths)
    From Inlet Tees to a Bypass Thermostat.(-10AN)
    Bypass thermostat (Bypass to 2 Overboard dumps - Both lines are equal lengths) -10AN
    The line that feeds the Banderlog Valve is -8AN and from the Valve -6AN to the headers. (Both lines are equal lengths)
    The remote oil filter lines from the block to the filter and oil cooler is -12AN (Also equal lengths)

    Wikus

    Some pics
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  10. #8
    WFL Crew TINTDESIGNZ's Avatar
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    Default nice jod net mad.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jet Mad View Post
    This is how I run my waterlines on my 12JC and 455 Olds

    From the pump SS pipe (12.5mm) ID
    On the SS pipe a 1/2" Gate Valve (not ball valve)
    3/4" SS Tee after gate valve.
    On the SS Tee a Brass Pressure Relief Valve set at 15 PSI with overboard dump through transom.
    From SS Tee a -10AN SS Braid hose.(8" long)
    AN Tee for line that feeds the Oil Cooler (-10AN)
    From oil cooler to a -10 AN Tee.
    From tee to water pump inlet ( -10AN - Both lines are equal lengths)
    From Inlet Tees to a Bypass Thermostat.(-10AN)
    Bypass thermostat (Bypass to 2 Overboard dumps - Both lines are equal lengths) -10AN
    The line that feeds the Banderlog Valve is -8AN and from the Valve -6AN to the headers. (Both lines are equal lengths)
    The remote oil filter lines from the block to the filter and oil cooler is -12AN (Also equal lengths)

    Wikus

    Some pics



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  11. #9
    Senior Member Alter Ego's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boaterguy1 View Post
    what if i have water injected headers
    The only other difference my plumbing would have if i had water injection lines woudl be at the thermostat housing. I have a plug in one side of it, but I would put a gate valve to regulate overall water amount right at the thermostat housing, then, run the water line through a spring loaded t-valve that comes with most headers, then split off the T to each header.

  12. #10
    Senior Member boaterguy1's Avatar
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    thanks for all the info guys

  13. #11
    Senior Member j c gordon's Avatar
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    Default New plumbing question

    Ok so I have my transom plates built and are now building my water lines from pump,and I have a 90* coming outta pump to a 90* going up and a 90* where it goes through top of transom then straight to line into motor. For some reason I have in the back of my head that someone told me not to use 90's but this is the only way to get past the tight fit at the transom plate and make it look good. Any of the guru's have a say so in this? I figured with the pressure it would make its way to the engine no matter what. Thanks JC
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  14. #12
    Senior Member Alter Ego's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j c gordon View Post
    Ok so I have my transom plates built and are now building my water lines from pump,and I have a 90* coming outta pump to a 90* going up and a 90* where it goes through top of transom then straight to line into motor. For some reason I have in the back of my head that someone told me not to use 90's but this is the only way to get past the tight fit at the transom plate and make it look good. Any of the guru's have a say so in this? I figured with the pressure it would make its way to the engine no matter what. Thanks JC
    I dont think that you will have plenty of water flow no matter how many 90*'s you use. I have two on the hose connecting the pump to transom plates, from the plates to the T, and then two 90*s at the water pump inlet, I rarely see anything over 140*. I run -8 line too if that helps.

  15. #13
    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    you are suppose to run -10 in and -12 out......
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  16. #14
    Senior Member j c gordon's Avatar
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    Well all my fittings and hose that I have is -8. So thats what Im working with. I figured with the pressure that the pump makes it should have plenty of flow. I was just wondering if the 90's would restrict too much with the -8. If I have to replace the hose and fittings I will, but if it works hard to justify the expense of buying new hose and fittings when I have all the stuff in -8 now.
    Ballin on a Budget!!
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    Make it fly with a Bowtie

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