Zinc zddp oil additive question
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 7 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 87

Thread:
Zinc zddp oil additive question

  1. #1
    whats a goodtime cost? Nixonnow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Fort Mohave, Arizona
    Posts
    270

    Default Zinc zddp oil additive question

    I'm running valvoline vr1 20/50 in my 454 BBC. I know it has high levels of zinc cause it is considered a racing oil. My question is even though it has zinc in it already do you guys put an additive on top of it? Something like the comp cams or Lucas oil zinc additives. Is there such thing as too much zinc?

    I know not everyone is running valvoline vr1 but what is your guys opinion on this?
    Last edited by Nixonnow; 06-30-2012 at 06:01 PM.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,299

    Default

    VR1 20/50 or any straight weight= No additives needed

  4. #3
    gn7
    gn7 is offline
    Senior Member gn7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    25,975

    Default

    Yes, it is possible to have to much ZDDP for everyday use.
    CompCams break in is fine for break in, but sucks for everyday use. It just ends up in the bottom of the pan. It contains waaaay too much MOS2 which is not the best thing to have in your engine.

    If your running straight or 20/50 VR1, I would not add anything. Any 10/30 conventional oil, including VR1, maybe a bottle of ZDDPlus to a 10-14 quart pan.



    100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    whats a goodtime cost? Nixonnow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Fort Mohave, Arizona
    Posts
    270

    Default

    Cool. Thanks guys. Piece of mind know there is enough zddp in there.

  7. #5
    Senior Member Franger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wasilla, Alaska
    Posts
    2,034

    Default

    I used the same oil in my old motor and added extra zinc just to break the motor in, one bottle for each 4 quarts of oil (2bottles) like recommended .... here's what the bottom of the pan looked like .... The "sludge" looking stuff is the zinc additive, the "pieces" are bearing material ..... this was after less than 1 hour of run time.... personally, I won't use extra zinc additive again
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	009.jpg 
Views:	150 
Size:	97.3 KB 
ID:	167041   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	013.jpg 
Views:	133 
Size:	96.9 KB 
ID:	167042  

  8. #6
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    waterloo
    Posts
    2,034

    Default

    The zinc addative thing is overthought somewhat. A little knowledge thing....
    Racing oils are still ok. Some better than others. If you are worried about a "break in" oil... buy Joe Gibbs break in oil, or another brand. It is formulated for a specific job. Not putting a band aid (addative) on a product (regular oil)
    Personally I just run VR1 20W50, or Lucas racing 20W50.
    Wags

  9. #7
    gn7
    gn7 is offline
    Senior Member gn7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    25,975

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wagspe208 View Post
    The zinc addative thing is overthought somewhat. A little knowledge thing....
    Racing oils are still ok. Some better than others.
    Personally I just run VR1 20W50, or Lucas racing 20W50.
    Wags
    I have 3 cases of Terrible Herbst Racing oil. How much would you like to buy? It says RACING OIL right on the label. Not a joke, I have it and you if would like to buy some, its yours. The words RACING oil on the label doesn't mean a fucking thing. It never did. There are NON racing oils out there that will crush MOST so called RACING oils. Badly! So, which would be the real RACING oil, and which is the FAUX RACING oil in that case?


    Some are better than others? Thats true. Look at the Terrible Herbst Racing Oil. Do you consider the 2 you listed in the BETTER category, or the OTHERS department?
    Its a little easier to "pick" an oil when your drag racing with a roller cam. An aggressive flat tappet with springs to support it a tad harder on the oil than ANY roller cam. Ask the roundy round boys. Ask me about wrist pins and pushrod ends. Ask the GN44 boat after smoking 4 pushrods at Burley.
    Yeah, the whole ZDDP thing is overblown.
    IF YOU RUN A ROLLER CAM 8 SECONDS AT A TIME!



    100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
    Last edited by gn7; 07-01-2012 at 09:51 AM.

  10. #8
    gn7
    gn7 is offline
    Senior Member gn7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    25,975

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Franger View Post
    I used the same oil in my old motor and added extra zinc just to break the motor in, one bottle for each 4 quarts of oil (2bottles) like recommended .... here's what the bottom of the pan looked like .... The "sludge" looking stuff is the zinc additive, the "pieces" are bearing material ..... this was after less than 1 hour of run time.... personally, I won't use extra zinc additive again
    Franger, ever see Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Torco SR1 or 5, Pennzoil GT Racing oils? Where any of them black?

    You cannot see ZDDP, neither the zink or the phos. There is way to little of both, and neither are black.

    You used an break in additive, used WAAAAY too much, and it was in a roller cam motor that has no need of any "break in" additive. The black is MOS2 which has no business being in any engine for more than 30 minutes tops.

    DO not blame the ZDDP/zink, blame the additive you used. They are not all the same, and ZDDP additives and BREAK IN additives are two different animals
    GOOD ZDDP additives are just that, and they do not contain MOS2 or as I refer to it, BLACK DEATH



    100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
    Last edited by gn7; 07-01-2012 at 10:01 AM.

  11. #9
    Senior Member bville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Glasgow, KY
    Posts
    1,688

    Default

    I broke my engine in on rotello 20/50 with an additive.It is a solid flat tappet with a good sized cam after about 45 mins run time I'am ready to change oil what are good oils for this app. and with or without additives any thoughts?

  12. #10
    gn7
    gn7 is offline
    Senior Member gn7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    25,975

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bville View Post
    I broke my engine in on rotello 20/50 with an additive.It is a solid flat tappet with a good sized cam after about 45 mins run time I'am ready to change oil what are good oils for this app. and with or without additives any thoughts?
    Yeah, stop using Rotello for starters.



    100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3

  13. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,299

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bville View Post
    I broke my engine in on rotello 20/50 with an additive.It is a solid flat tappet with a good sized cam after about 45 mins run time I'am ready to change oil what are good oils for this app. and with or without additives any thoughts?
    VALVOLINE VR1 30,40,50,60 lol Evolution is a wonderful thing!

  14. #12
    Senior Member bville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Glasgow, KY
    Posts
    1,688

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Yeah, stop using Rotello for starters.
    OK I know what you don't like now I'am asking what you do like in a conventional without additives.

  15. #13
    gn7
    gn7 is offline
    Senior Member gn7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    25,975

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bville View Post
    OK I know what you don't like now I'am asking what you do like in a conventional without additives.
    In no particular order, based on what is easily available to you:

    Any straight weight VR1
    20/50 VR1
    Lucas 20/50(even the non racing)Racing as no meaning and guarantees nothing
    Kendall 20/50 Hi Perf Ti.

    If you can find it fairly easy,
    Lucas 20/50 racing
    Lucas Marine conventional

    aside form the "speciality" conventionals like Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Torco, etc, none of the OTHER name conventionals have any business being in a flat tappet performance boat engine. That includes diesel oils.



    100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3

  16. #14
    Senior Member wagspe208's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    waterloo
    Posts
    2,034

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    I have 3 cases of Terrible Herbst Racing oil. How much would you like to buy? It says RACING OIL right on the label. Not a joke, I have it and you if would like to buy some, its yours. The words RACING oil on the label doesn't mean a fucking thing. It never did. There are NON racing oils out there that will crush MOST so called RACING oils. Badly! So, which would be the real RACING oil, and which is the FAUX RACING oil in that case?


    Some are better than others? Thats true. Look at the Terrible Herbst Racing Oil. Do you consider the 2 you listed in the BETTER category, or the OTHERS department?
    Its a little easier to "pick" an oil when your drag racing with a roller cam. An aggressive flat tappet with springs to support it a tad harder on the oil than ANY roller cam. Ask the roundy round boys. Ask me about wrist pins and pushrod ends. Ask the GN44 boat after smoking 4 pushrods at Burley.
    Yeah, the whole ZDDP thing is overblown.
    IF YOU RUN A ROLLER CAM 8 SECONDS AT A TIME!
    Man.... whew...
    OK "racing oils"... this means real racing oils. NOT walmart racing oil. I am sorry for the lack of clarity.
    I think the ones I mentioned are ok. VR1... yes, Joe Gibbs... yes... Lucas... my experience seems to be, but I have only used it for a couple years. Bearings seem to look great.
    And as for "bracket racing with a roller cam 8 seconds at a time"... WTF
    I would submit that an ignorant bracket racer is harder on oil than a pleasure boater. 1) Don't warm it up, 2) Screwed tuneup dillutes oil, 3) engines half assed built to begin with, etc. Pleasure boaters at least warm up their oil after running for a while...even if it s by accident.
    So, I stand by my statement... use a racing oil... that is designed to do what flat tappet cam guys are doing....not some crap with a band aid.
    Wags
    SO....carry on.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 7 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95