Sounds awesome to me! I always though it would be cool to put a 03/04 cobra motor in a jetboat, but with a big turbo instead of the supercharger.

 

I believe I saw some Youtube Dyno videos of the new 5.0's in the 850 hp range with either blowers of turbo kits. Very impressive engine for it's size. I would think you could get in the 1000 hp range without all of the accesories used in automobiles versus a boat.

 

I have sold and special cut Impellers for a guy in Vegas who has installed used ("Carbureted") Ford and Lincoln "Modulor" motors in two jets , he claims they scream ! If your interested PM me I'll put you in touch with him Tom

 

I know if u take s brand new stock 5.0 and put slicks on it. It will pull the front wheels off the ground, then grab second and front left will come up. Those things r badass, and can be programmed to the moon

 

Yeah I have an intake/tune/catless H pipe and I got 406rwhp. I know a company did long tubes, tune, cams, boss intake, polished heads and achieved 500rwhp n/a. In order to safely get the 650+rwhp the forged internals from the boss engine should be used. But it's easily attained with forced induction and good tuning. The tuning potential is what really makes this engine killer, I don't know how it would react to a carburetor. If I don't find the time or funds to do this I sure hope someone does!

 

I think one of those '03-04 Terminators would be fun to build, and a built Coyote might just be plain rediculous with some serious boost.

 

I think the terminator engine could be ran with a carb. Think of the cam setup on the coyotes cams it seems you really would need to run the computer. Unless you could just lock the cams out to one position, sense you don't really need the power below 3000 rpm's. The new mustang cobra jet uses the 5.0 and a 2.9 liter whipple, I see it producing at least 800hp. I'll have to start searching junk yards for a totaled 5.0

 

They make msd boxes for the new fords and for the hemi. New motors are easy to wire up. I think they make carbed manifolds for them too but I'm unsure.

 

Out of curiosity - why go backward to carb application? Is there a benefit to the boat usage?

 

build started

my son and i have started a build and i am very excited about this project, we are shooting for 1200 hp and this thing will be light. the hull was ordered yesterday along with intake, pump, motor and blower. this boat is going to be awsome.

thinking of names, how about "3 oh too" or 5.uh oh"?

here is link to our 4,000 lb 2011 mustang and we are putting identical motor in the boat (19 ft daytona).

Kenne Bell 5.0 Coyote 9.40 @ 147 - YouTube


"stay tuned"

al turner
gt performance
authorized lund racing dealer

 

Here is why I wouldn't run EFI on this particular application. EFI computers no likey get wet. A big boat has nice sheltered engine compartment. 19' Daytona, not so much. Another factor is the O2 sensor. If you're running through transom jacketed exhaust, you have some options for O2 sensors. Not so with injected headers. A lot of places (CO River) won't let you run dry headers. Another issue can come from the throttle body on the Coyote. It's a "drive by wire" design, so you would have to fab up a custom pedal for it based on the factory pedal design. I like EFI and want to switch my boat someday. For me it's a cost issue. I have a lot of other things I can spend $2500 on before EFI!

 

Here is why I wouldn't run EFI on this particular application. EFI computers no likey get wet

The ECM is approved to be mounted in the "wet cowl" area of a car, exposed to the elements (rain) - Aside from completely submerging it, water won't be a problem.

Another factor is the O2 sensor. If you're running through transom jacketed exhaust, you have some options for O2 sensors. Not so with injected headers.

We will be running dry exhaust, over the transom.

Another issue can come from the throttle body on the Coyote. It's a "drive by wire" design, so you would have to fab up a custom pedal for it based on the factory pedal design.

Drive-by-wire is superior in every aspect. Fabricating a throttle pedal setup is pretty simple. We can do some really interesting stuff with the drive-by-wire like eliminate the need for a traditional rev limiter. Also, no big ugly throttle cable to run.

But you, Hass, I would HOPE - - know that HP is only a matter of AIR, FUEL, and RPM. So, I don't see any physical force that would keep a given motor from making the SAME hp/tq if it's given the SAME AMOUNT OF EACH from a different source? We both know that a bad tune is a bad tune - NO MATTER the source of fuel. But my question for YOU is, WHY WOULDN'T a well-tuned EFI setup make the SAME HP as the well-tuned CARB it replaced? That's a genuine question, not smart-ass.

The point being missed here is that we are not comparing EFI to carburetors. We are comparing a complete engine management system to a rudimentary method of fuel delivery. I can precisely control fuel at all loads and rpm, regardless of weather conditions. I can precisely control spark and spark curve, almost infinitely variable based on loads, rpm, throttle position, etc. Now, the major advantage is cam timing. I have total, independent control of the cams. I can optimize cam timing in 100 rpm increments. No more lump lump lump, low rpm lack of cylinder pressure, etc. No more sacrifices to make peak power. Between the independent variable cam timing and a little boost, a conventional carburetor and fixed cam engine simply CAN NOT make the average power and torque out of 300 inches. Period. Keep in mind, this is all out of a package that weighs 385 lbs intake to headers. Figure 450 lbs tops completely dressed, compressor and all.

For the OP, I enjoy seeing anything different, the engine should work fine. Look forward to hearing some results. )THumbsUp

Thanks. We believe it is going to work exceptionally well. We will certainly keep this thread updated as we progress. )THumbsUp

 

if we meet our weight goal this boat will have a 1 to 1 hp to weight ratio. i have not been excited about a project like this in a long time.

 

There is a 336 mile race on the Parker River in Oct. You should both come out, and bring your wallets.

 

i've played around with outboard tunnels for over 25 yrs, it was a better
race when it was 9 hours long. i have toyed with the idea of running it now that it is a real race again. i'll stop by stoker's shop and see if we can throw something together lol.

maybe hass828 will codrive with me lol

 

I vote solid block!

 

:stir: lol. the crew chief has spoken! :stir:

 

Apparently, you missed the FIRST ONE.

 

Its a valid point to mention rules imo if theyre building big hp and may wanna put it thru clocks.itd have to pass tech first..would b tuff to swallow not being allowed for ignorance of the rules so i asked.the op knows the rule now , so do i and others.if the fella wants to run a electronic throttle i thnk itd be neat and work flawless cuz simply ive been around it forever it feels but that dont change squat and i dont expect it too..if its gna be resold at some point i agree its best to rig a race worthy boat to not cost the next owner a grip to comply.make the boat more marketable anyways to a broader group.

 

I got chur coyote right right here.

 

I got chur coyote right right here.

You are a gold plated dick.










You just made me snort beer through my nose.

 

Hhmm I forgot about this thread and it seems to have gone in a different direction than I intended haha. I'm still really curious about this. You can find good used engines on the mustang forums all the time, and with this Ford Racing Mustang "Coyote" 5.0L 4V Crate Engine Control Pack M-6017-A504V - Free Shipping! , some custom exhaust, rail kit, dyno tune, it would run safely all day long with 450hp and 550hp with a safe shot of nitrous. Still out of my price range...but one day...

 

I I think this is a great engine for a boat. I've built many to 1,100hp as per nhra stock/superstock specs. Maybe I missed it, turbo? Whipple? If so the 2.9?
Rod and main clearances need to be way bigger than from the factory. I've proved it to many stubborn teams that spun rod bearings and windowed blocks.
Use a high volume pump it keeps the phasers happy...
I've proved to many teams thicker oil equals faster e.t. and on the dyno. Hot oil kills the power with 5/30-10/30 oils.
The hydraulic shit likes thick oil. I've got them spinning 9,700.
The crankshaft is only $245 and I've never broke one. Mag check them and reuse.
I've run the sleeves at .045 thick with a 3.700 bore but the alum behind it is about .250-.280. No problems so far but you want to make much more power so I'd stay smaller bore with thicker sleeves. Darton MID sleeves won't work in a coyote cause they have drain backs on the inside (valley side) and you'll break into them. 5.4 only has drain backs on outside so it will accept MID sleeve.
If using a Whipple degree cams to least amount of overlap as possible. They also don't like intake advanced more than 112-113. I've tried it multiple times. If your on a dyno you can change can timing in 15minutes. Keep retardingboth cams and watch the average numbers. Good luck and have fun, post some pictures up with this bitch in the boat.
Try to get a newer block they have 1mm bigger head bolts.

 

I I think this is a great engine for a boat. I've built many to 1,100hp as per nhra stock/superstock specs. Maybe I missed it, turbo? Whipple? If so the 2.9?

Kenne Bell 4.2

I've proved to many teams thicker oil equals faster e.t. and on the dyno. Hot oil kills the power with 5/30-10/30 oils.
The hydraulic shit likes thick oil. I've got them spinning 9,700.

I run 50 weight. )THumbsUp

Try to get a newer block they have 1mm bigger head bolts.

They also don't thread as deep into the block. Supposedly Ford thought the longer head bolts were distorting the sleeves and causing them to fail and push into the water jacket. This change didn't stop this failure, so Ford put out 10 of the "sportsman" blocks with the fortified water jacket. People quit pushing the liners, and split the blocks in the valley instead.

 

You seem to have a good knowledge of these engines. Have you popped number 8 cylinder yet? Mine is stock aside from o/r H pipe and a tune, I burned copious amounts of oil at first but over time it has gone through less and less oil, now at 15,000 miles I can't see any noticeable oil consumption. Would you change out the bearings for a mild n/a build in a boat that wouldn't see higher than 6,500 rpm?

 

I would run stock clearance in that application. I built one a few years ago for fords crate motor development that was up around 650-680 using there stock parts and specs supplied. I would disassemble it for the engineer weinies to come inspect and it was good. But anytime someone pushes a C.J. they always fail. In bone stock trim they make 870 on my dyno. The ones I build are always over 1,000-1,100hp. The rod and mains look brand new after 50-100 passes with .0030-.0035 on rods and mains.
Are you talking about breaking a piston? We connect the water from the back of each head together. It seems to fix that.
There better than a 5.4 in some ways and some not. I'd really like to see one in a boat.

 

quick update,,,, boat should go into mold this comming week, trying something different with construction technique, and to beaver, the motor is getting a 4.2 litre kenne bell supercharger.

 

Cool youve done your homework and don't seem to be a idiot, so prove to these guys what can be done with a production block and production heads w/o a carb, dist, or mag. I'm fucking in! Do it! Yeah!

I still have the very first sportsman block at the shop. Its all blue w/o head bolt holes/water pump hole machined etc. I cut some up about a year ago just to see the differences. Not many its mostly in the water jackets.

I really like those bigger blowers. All my super stock 5.4 shit run the 4.0. I make 1,330hp in legal S/S trim with that blower. Over 1,400 for a C.J. shoot out deal. I've never used the 4.2. I used a Whipple 5.0 on a build a few years back.

Use good rods. I've even had problems with the lightweight Olivers. Use Heavy duty rods with a good bolt.

What do you use for after cooler? Factory C.J. stuff?

Depending on boost level may have to double key crank. I do in S.S. shit and don't in the stockers with the 2.3 and 2.9.

What fuel? How much boost???? I'm getting excited and I don't get excited about engines anymore:happy:

 

20 lbs to start on e85.

 

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just a bump to say project is still alive.boat is out of mold and came out absolutely perfect. maybe someone(mike) will post some pics? this may be the strongest lightest and straitest daytona in the country. things should get going over the next couple of months so "stay tuned"., )THumbsUp