Enough so it doesn't pop out.

Sorry...couldn't resist.hand

 

Basically what Steel said. I wouldn't think it needs to be stretched, well at least I've never seen it necessary. There should be two divits on that shift crank shaft where the ball bearing locks into when it's in gear and out of gear so I would tighten it until it locks into those divits. Do you have a locking handle for when it's in gear? I'm assuming your having a problems with the handle staying put out of gear???

 

Make sure the detent hole isn't full of crap, too.

 

Make sure the detent hole isn't full of crap, too.

That's the word I was looking for!!!sphss

X2 with what Morg said!!

My bad!! I assumed he had a whirlaway.. We all know what assume means.

 

I may have missed it but did anybody ask if he has a whirlaway? If so it will never stay in no matter how tight the detent ball is.

 

Pretty sure in another thread we figured out Ron is running a non-whirlaway deal.

On my Hondo, I ended up running a cable to shift the v-drive. It would not stay in without it. The resistance in the cable held it in.

Ron, more reason to get a whirlaway. Get a hold of J.J. Beaverfab.

 

Of coures there's the old trick of just moving the lever forward on the splines so it hits the case and can't pop out...

 

Since I haven't really dealt with a non-whirlaway I have a question, do they have a locking handle and would it work in this case?

 

Yes you can use a locking handle on a non whirlaway unit. the spring really has nothing to do with the box staying in gear. The box is held in gear by the dove tail cut on the gear dogs. Under heavy power it should be very difficult to pull it out of gear. If you have a problem with it coming out of gear, look at the engagement dogs on you gears. Whirlaways require a different cut on the dogs so that they can ratchet, and is the reason they require a locking handle.

 

Well, I tightened up the adjustment on the spring and ball bearing, and the handle wouldn't move any more. so I took it apart and found some one had taken out the steel ball bearing and put in a PLASTIC one!!! It was about 3/8" diameter. I assume this is not right. What is the normal diameter of the steel ball that goes in there? Holy crap...st

 

Because you bottomed the adjuster out. 3/8 sounds about right.

 

3/8 is right. The plastic ball that was in there was actually closer to 1/2". Took me awile to figure out the ball should be INSIDE the adjuster bolt 'cause thats not how it was when I got it-also the end of the bolt was messed up and the 3/8 ball didn't fit into it until I dressed up the end of the bolt.works good now.bulb
One more thing- do I need to fill the in/out housing with oil, it was about half full when I pulled off the cover.or does it draw what it needs from the rest of the box?

 

I'm pretty positive the proper way to adjust this is to bottom out the adjuster then take it back about 1/2 a turn or so. hope this helps

 

I'm pretty positive the proper way to adjust this is to bottom out the adjuster then take it back about 1/2 a turn or so. hope this helps

Thanks, I was wondering what the right amount of preload was. I think I ended up doing it pretty much like you stated, but I hate guessing.)THumbsUp

 

If I pulled the adjuster bolt back out and filled it up through there so it won't run dry at first, should I fill it all the way up to the top? I know it's kind of a (DUH) question, but for all I know oil might piss out all over if it's to full.sphss