Yes ,you can scarf extensions in as long as you are sure that is all .... that needs to be done ,and from the looks of things your center stringer ( keel ) looks somewhat blackish which usally indicates rot also , and most likely something you already know . :wink2::wink2:

 

lol yep its ripped out. can i leave it out if im doing stringer extensions? would like to use that place for cooler and storage! )THumbsUp

 

rip everything out... that looks terrible. how much is that hull worth to ya? after materials and labor it might just be worth it to buy a hull thats solid.


then again you could always put the time and effort into this hull and know EXACTLY the condition and strength of the boat.

this coming from someone who JUST ripped out their stringers and put in brand new dried douglas fir stringers.

 

its not that hard to rip out the junk wood. put two fresh full sringers in . the middle one looks like suport for walking area. i would lay some glass where the new stringers are to go first ,couple layers of nitex to strengthen the area .i would also put some down & put the honey comb stuff for glass work on edge or plywood off center on the fiberglass strips so the on edge piece has a bigger foot print . then you can have the cooler in the center, you will have to test to see how much flex at how many inches apart your on edge support will be . 12" ,15" etc. . thats what i would do but not an expert .

 

This is what I wound up withafter taking everything out.

http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/lethalinjection1978/DSCN0772.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/lethalinjection1978/DSCN0771.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/lethalinjection1978/DSCN0763.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/lethalinjection1978/reardone.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/lethalinjection1978/DSCN0767.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/lethalinjection1978/DSCN0770.jpg

washed everything out and its dry now... hull appears to be in great shape.

Im going to re work this one. don't have anything hardly at all in the boat currently.

My idea was to extend the existing engine stringers all the way to the front. add
gussets to tie them together across the boat to support the floor. then fiberglass everything in.

I like the idea to add some new glass to the floor before installing the new stringers!

Can i just eliminate the center stringer if i do it that way? :bangmyhead:

 

Lethal, at this point in time if at all possible you just might want to add a little more support to the hull side's (chime ) , transom , keel , etc , to structurally help retain the original shape of the hull , and have you given much thought on what type of resin you you are going to use Epoxy , Vinyl , or Poly , and fabric which in most cases depends on what type of resin you are going to use . Just a quick mention these people offer good prices on materials which are often hard to beat , and might i suggest taking a look at there Epoxy resin ( #635 ) along with the other resins they have to offer................. Vinyl & Poly www.uscomposites.com

 

Man I really appreciate the thought Ginger! good looking out! /fist bump \ )THumbsUp they are alot cheaper and offer some nicer products! im going to use the typical epoxy now im leaning toward carbon fiber! i think my transom and engine compartment would look awesome like that!

have a few ?'s though....

What mat should I use for attaching my stringers?
What mat to encapsulate my new floor so it doesn't rot again?
Can I cover my transom in that carbon fiber? If I peel the old flaking glass off...

 

Lethal if you are going to use Epoxy like mentioned above i would go with the Epoxy that www.uscomposites has to offer which is there (635 ) because it really gives you the most bang for your buck , and when using Epoxy you need a matless cloth like #17 oz Bi Ax because you dont want to use any chop or continous strand mats like #1708 with any Epoxy systems even though #1708 is a very common Biaxial which has a binder ( CSM) sewn or stitched into the fabric that is designed for polyester resins and sometimes used with Epoxy resins with satisfactory results but may may cause clouding and prevent through wet out ( binder ) that often requires more resin to thoroughly wet the fabric out , and when you say cover the transom with Carbon Fiber are you thinking of doing the back side of the transom and engine compartment using flow coat or Ad-tec's Epoxy clear . Lethal , just a quick mention and that is if i was you do too the heat this summer i would go with a very slow hardner (Catalyst ) because longer pot life means more work time wihich means less waste .

 

CAN I SCARF IN WITH A 2X4? not wanting my stringers to come up through my floor level!

 

for an open bow i would keep the quarter stringers for the engine and then replace center stringer like it was before. then slap a 3/4" floor across it to make things flat. for added strength just tie/tab everything together. like you said you dont want full stringers exposed in your floor, that would kinda suck. you might want to do 2 smaller stringers that will fit flush under the floor and then cut a hole and make a ski locker for storage underneath the floor to maximize space.

i used 2 gals of west systems epoxy resin, 2x of their fast hardener (i was working at night, even though it was "fast" it took overnight to fully cure) and their fiberglass mat. i chopped up some mat and made a paste and bedded the stringers to the floor and put some weight onto them. they were REALLY stuck after that. then i did 3 layers of mat draped over the top of them, first layer going out 2", then 4", then 6".

2 full stringer example:

 

that is what i was talking about was just for cosmetics with the carbon fiber.. as far as the stringer. i dont have the room under my consoles to run full stringers unless i rit the 2x6 to about a 2x4 here is what i had in mind doing... rough drawing but youll get the idea



was going to tie all the rear 1/4 stringers together with a bulkhead. run the original style stringer up to where im going to have my opening. frame a box around that then continue with a single stringer again. use bulkheads that run chime to chime throughout each split and glass it all in... will that work?

 

Lethal , if you are going to use carbon Fiber on the Transom are you concerned about the yellowing that might occure over a period of time because the resin does not have U V qualties , and if so might i recomend ADTECH Plastic Systems

 

Just a quick mention , and that is when bonding or bedding your stringers in might i suggest going with a thickened Epoxy made made with Cabosil & resin ( Peanut Butter consistency ) using or taking the squeezed out Epoxy from the joint or stringer and shaping it into a fillet which is a cove shaped application made using a hobby stick that not only bonds the stringer to the hull but gives your fabric ( glass ) a nice coved shaped to roll into at the base or joint of the stringer , and dont forget to round over the edges on the top of your stringers .

 

I have ben watching alot of videos on doing this. Im a pretty handy guy! i think with the info you guys have given me and what iv learned from the videos im sure this will work out!
my only concern is going 500 hp and this hull design. but i think i can re enforce enough to make it work.

 

KaOtyk , first off .....if you really want to keep your weight down in your layup , you really need to learn how to Vacume bag which will take two layers of fabric & reduce it too almost one which in turn will reduce the amount of resin or slop used during layup .........making a stronger , lighter and better part or layup .

 

Here is what i had in mind.... Think this will work?

 

Made templates yesterday. local lumber yard had to order the wood I needed, didn't want to risk miss cutting something!)eek)